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Re: A couple of newbie questions.

• MrFunnyWobbl 894 Posts

  Sat, Sep 12 2015 8:51 PM

  Hello, I am relatively new to this game, been playing for a couple weeks and I have a couple questions, I was hoping I could get advice on from the community. 

   

  1. I feel like I'm missing a shot. I currently have two cleveland wedges I've purchased, a 60 and 64 degree with 75/60 distances. I like them for the most part, but I feel like they are unreliable for short shots. On longer shots, say 50+ yards, they get a nice high loft and come down hard and are very accurate, however, on short shots less than 40 yards they (mainly the 64) hit almost like a pitch, with a lower trajectory despite that I am using full swing. 

  Ex. 

  I was just playing on BPB No.7 which is a 500+ yard par 4. Since I don't have a driver (getting L48 driver) I hit a 3 wood off the tee, and then tried to hit a 3 wood into the green. I came up about 33 yards short on the right side of the fairway. This left me about 10 yardsish short of the bunker and then 10ish yards short of the pin of the other side. This was too long to flop either wedge, to far to chip, pitch was just outside range and I feared a pitch would land in the bunker. I considered punch but I was worried that if It got over the bunker onto the green that it would roll very far and leave me a considerable putt for par. 

   

  So I chose to hit my 64 degree at full swing. I hit it for about 58% power, enough to go a distance past the hole, however, the shot came out almost like a pitch and ended up in the rough between the bunker and the green on the far side of the bunker. Why could this shot not have been hit like a higher lofted flop type shot like this wedge does at distances over 45 yards? Am I missing something here? 

   

  2. I have been reading quite a bit on these forums to try to learn the game and I have encountered a lot of discussion regarding players whose putting method involves trying to hit the ding vs players whose putting method involves purposely trying to miss the ding. I have not found anything that has explained to me why players would be purposely trying to miss the ding? How does this work? Currently I am adjusting for break and elevation changes in greens with the aim thingy and then trying to hit the ding. Is this a poor way to putt? 

   

  3. I have been playing the game primarily on Iphone (5c) and the game runs fairly smoothly, but occasionally tells me the memory capacity is low and to close other apps. I do this in the understanding that maybe this game is hard on the RAM of an Iphone. Regardless of this, the game sometimes randomly crashes. It will just kick me back to the home screen on my iphone and I have to reenter the app and continue the round, with no affect on my shots or scores. While this isn't a big issue, is there a easy fix, or is it because it is hard on the iphone's processor. Mainly, will this hurt the longevity of my phone in the long run?

   

  Thanks 

• SeabrookFlash 463 Posts

  Sun, Sep 13 2015 12:45 PM

  Have you tried a punch shot yet?.. If you switch from full to punch you will notice the yardage get shorter.  this is perfect to fill the gaps in the shorter distances.  From 17 yards, and in try a pitch with full backspin. I hope this helps

• kersh1976 2,790 Posts

  Sun, Sep 13 2015 12:48 PM

  For shots between 30 and 50 yards a lot of players use the punch shot with their 64 degree wedge.  Best thing to do is play in practice mode, that way  you can use  muligan to play the shot as many times as you want until you get your distance control right, as using different amounts of backspin will affect how far the ball goes.

   

• alosso 21,072 Posts

  Sun, Sep 13 2015 1:24 PM

  1, both occasions: Me thinks your wedges react a tad non-linear if choked a lot. You may have to map the shot lengths thoroughly to get the distances right.

  2: If we hit the meter off-ding, the shot will deviate from "straight" to the same direction. With the putter, you may compensate a side break by that instead of moving the aimer to that direction. Though I'm putting "off-ding", I'd propose you to learn "ding" putting.

  3. The game has started to be RAM-eating a short while ago - apparently both on PC and on Mobile. Dunno what this may do to your phone.

• jeepie411 3,197 Posts

  Sun, Sep 13 2015 4:37 PM

  The distance issue is related to the fact that there is a certain amount of distance degradation in the game. That is to say that a 50 yard club hit with 50% power will not go 25 yards.  This is likely what another poster calls Non Linear distance by choking up.

  You will need to try your club and ball combinations using different power values and see how much power it takes to go the required distance. Make some notes to refer to until you get these memorized. Be aware that your distance and roll out will be affected by other variables such as wind, slope, green speeds and backspin.

• Luciano18 317 Posts

  Sun, Sep 13 2015 5:03 PM

  Mr Wobbl

  MrFunnyWobbl:

  short shots less than 40 yards they (mainly the 64) hit almost like a pitch, with a lower trajectory despite that I am using full swing. 

  As someone else has noted, the shot parameters are non-linear on all club - even down to the putter (but it is least noticeable on the putter)

  My way to figure this out was - start a practice stroke game and where the balls land work shots from there at different strengths - using mulligans and starter ball

  Example - in the 20/25% rough from 16yd, take your 64 and hit it 100%, 95% and so until you got a feel for the various distances

  Try different elevations also to see how they react to the shots

  This game me a pretty good idea of what would happen with other balls - you may gain a yard or 2 or 5 depending on the situation

  also worked with the putter and different green speeds (VF, Tour, Champ etc) and uphill and down and you can really see the "linear reaction" of the clubs

  MrFunnyWobbl:

  I have not found anything that has explained to me why players would be purposely trying to miss the ding? How does this work? Currently I am adjusting for break and elevation changes in greens with the aim thingy and then trying to hit the ding. Is this a poor way to putt? 

  No it is not

  Folk have adjusted to different methods with different putters - the biggest reason as I see it (not that I'm an expert LOL) is trying to hold whatever Line you have chosen for the putt

  I try to hit the ding for the most part, but will try to "miss ding" inside or outside of the line depending on the slope of the green - in an effort to keep the line to the hole

   

  Good Luck and hit'em straight

  L F

• SweetiePie 4,925 Posts

  Mon, Sep 14 2015 6:07 AM

  As these questions relate to my experience and own views, may I add these? With the Cleve wedges, the punch & flop are as valuble as the full shot...perhaps more so.

  As to the ding vs mis-ding, I used the mis-ding scheme early on with success vs the failure after failure of trying to be "perfect", in every way in putting ie perfect pointing, perfect power, perfect ding-hits = perfect horror and then gainning success by only saying to my self " this breaks right, so I will fool it by missing the ding many pixels to the left.  ;-} 

• MainzMan 9,591 Posts

  Mon, Sep 14 2015 11:39 AM

  I very rarely play a shot 50% power, I find it too hard to judge the power accurately.  I agree with those who say use the punch shot, it's as good as having a few extra clubs in your bag. 

  With my Nike PW hitting 120 full, 103 punch, 56° ATV 100 and 86, 60° ATV 75 and 62 and the 64° ATV 50 and 41 I can play most short approach shots full power or pretty close to it.  You can also control the distance a bit by varying spin, more back spin will knock a yard or 3 off, neutral will add a couple and a bit of top spin will get 3 to 4 extra.  This is one area I found the Cleveland wedges to be better than the ATV, top spin would easily get 5 or 6 yards more out of them, the ATV struggle to get 4 over the rated distance.

  Spend a while learning how far your 64 wedge will hit a punch shot.  Go to a hole with a flat green in practice mode, get the ball to just short of it and hit various power shots with the same back spin.  Use a mulligan after each one and keep doing it until you get a good feel for how the shot plays, particularly how much run out you get.  You want the ball to roll a bit, your chances of holing out are higher that way.

  Everyone has their own way of doing things, no method is wrong as long as it works for whoever uses it.  I almost never use a flop or a chip, anything between 42 and 14 yards I punch, under that I pitch.   As I say though, whatever works for you is that matters.

  A good short game can be a real round saver.

• 11BC2 555 Posts

  Wed, Sep 16 2015 11:37 AM

  @ OP

  Here is a copy of my 64W mappings, albeit, a level 80 and a different ball.

   

  I prefer to use Pitches and Punch shots when possible because it's easier to aim and you get way more hole outs.   If you're using starter clubs/balls then obviously you get virtually no spin and are forced to use more flops.  Once you move up and get better clubs Pitches/Punches are much better Imho.

   

  Cleveland 64W - lvl 80 (club = 4.5 spin; ball = 2.5spin 4.0 distance):

   

  17y Pitch (full b/s;  for .25 or .5 gaps use inbetween % or remove some b/s):

  • 17y  -  100%
  • 16y  -  96%
  • 15y  -  91%
  • 14y  -  86%
  • 13y  -  82%
  • 12y  -  76%
  • 11y  -  72%
  • 10y  -  68%
  •   9y  -  64%
  •   8y  -  58%
  •   7y  -  54%
  •   6y  -  50%
  •   5y  -  46%

  20y Flop (full b/s):

  • 19y  -  100%
  • 18y  -  96%
  • 17y  -  92%
  • 16y  -  88%
  • 15y  -  85%
  • 14y  -  82%
  • 13y  -  78%
  • 12y  -  74%
  • 11y  -  70%
  • 10y  -  66%
  •   9y  -  62%
  •   8y  -  58%
  •   7y  -  54%
  •   6y  -  50%
  •   5y  -  46%
  •   4y  -  43%

  Punch shot, smaller distances (full b/s; if you want more roll on your shot simply use zero spin and add +2y.  This comes in handy on hole positions that have some slope and full spin shots would actually back up):

  • 18y  -  50%
  • 19y  -  52%
  • 20y  -  54%
  • 21y  -  56%
  • 22y  -  58%
  • 23y  -  60%
  • 24y  -  62%
  • 25y  -  64%
  • 27y  -  66%
  • 28y  -  68%
  • 29y  -  70%
  • 30y  -  72%
  • 31y  -  74%
  • 32y  -  76%
  • 33y  -  78%
  • 35y  -  80%
  • 36y  -  82%
  • 37y  -  84%
  • 39y  -  86%
  • 40y  -  88%
  • 42y  -  90%

  Full shot (full b/s;  if you want slightly less spin use zero spin and add +2/3y):

  • 27y   -  60%
  • 28.5  -  62%
  • 30y   -  64%
  • 32y   -  66%
  • 34y   -  68%
  • 35.5  -  70%
  • 37y   -  72%
  • 38.5  -  74%
  • 40y   -  76%

  Punch shot, longer distances (zero spin):

  • 44y  -  90%
  • 45y  -  91%
  • 46y  -  92%
  • 47y  -  94%
  • 48y  -  96%
  • 49y  -  98%
  • 50y  -  100%
  • 52.5 - 100% full top spin

  Full shot (full top spin;  Cleveland wedges like to spin therefore I prefer to add full top spin and adjust my yardages from there).

  • 53y  -  88%
  • 54y  -  90%
  • 55y  -  91%
  • 56y  -  92%
  • 57y  -  94%
  • 58y  -  95%
  • 59y  -  96%
  • 60y  -  97%
  • 61y  -  98%
  • 62y  -  99%
  • 63y  -  100%

  If you're having any problems with actually swinging the exact %'s download Kats Wind and Elevation Calculator.  Additonally it has adjustable wind settings and an adjustable swing bar with %.

  The real trick is getting the correct adjusted distance for each shot.  Some holes are deceiving, i.e., you might be 33y away and the hole is 4F above your ball.  Quite frequently you'll only need to add 1 - 2F of elevation instead.  Good hole mappings and notes help out with that.  Anyways, I hope this helps someone lol! :D

  And don't let my poor sand/scrambling % fool you ;).  I used to play a lot of UEL in my first 100 ranked rounds and had many maximum shot holes ^^.  Hate that damn red terrain rough and or bunker!!

  Cheers!  Sean

• MrFunnyWobbl 894 Posts

  Wed, Sep 16 2015 6:12 PM

  This is so huge for me! 

   

  Thank you so much for sharing!