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I need a FoolProof technique against cross winds

• Shedlite 917 Posts

  Tue, May 27 2014 8:19 PM

  alexk345:

  Any expert method  to hit straight in cross winds?

  Hell, i can't hit straight when there is no wind. lol

  for me at least depending on angle of wind, the speed , the distance , the club, the ball I'm using, and terrain....its kinda a feel thing. I'm a ping hitter (i try-and fail-to ping every time) aiming my shot with that little triangle at end of shot line). does it work, not often because i can't ping every hit, but when i do ping it works for me

• MBaggese 15,367 Posts

  Tue, May 27 2014 10:21 PM

  gr8flbob:

  Dan, let's just agree to disagree, Maybe, you can't hit a draw (or fade)  into a cross-wind, but I can ... with high-end aproach clubs:  3W - PW. Wedges gets a bit trickier, but that's a whole different part of the game. 

   

  Show me a replay...as I have only tried it  few (hundred) times) with epic fail...I'd like to see your technique.

   

  Please don't show a tee shot or a 3 woodd FW shot...show me your iron fades and draws,.

   

  Waiting to learn here.

• MainzMan 9,591 Posts

  Wed, May 28 2014 12:22 AM

  This is obviously only my opinion and everyone is naturally entitled to a different one but I would advise against controlling the line of the shot by missing the ding.

  There are obviously situations where it becomes necessary to give it a go.  BPB #9 for instance, if you carry the left hand bunker off the tee but land short and have to go round the trees.  A hefty missed ding can get you out of some tricky situations.

  However, it also makes distance judgement much more of a guess and for this I would never use it when moving the marker and trying to hit the ding is an option.  A dinged or very near dinged shot will always be more accurate then a shot where the ding is missed by a lot.

  I use a pretty simple calculation for side winds, after a while you can do it on your head but it does seem to be pretty accurate most of the time.  For strong cross winds and shorter shots I allow a bit more as the ball usually rolls with the wind after hitting the green.

  I try to make every shot as simple as possible, adding in how much to miss the ding by seems to make it more complicated and therefore more likely to go wrong.

  Each to their own though.

• MainzMan 9,591 Posts

  Wed, May 28 2014 12:32 AM

  MBaggese:

  Show me a replay...as I have only tried it  few (hundred) times) with epic fail...I'd like to see your technique.

  Here's one Mike.  This is a situation where I'd have a go at bending the ball a bit.

  I'm aiming at the little white hut to the right of the green and using a 6 (180 yards) iron.  If it were straight a 7 (165 yards) would easily get there but because I'm missing the ding about half an inch early I'm losing a lot of distance.

  It worked out pretty well, better than I expected.  This was in practice mode by the way, I took an iron off the tee to get the ball where I wanted and pitched it about a bit until the trees were blocking my shot but I was still on fairway.

  Actually, looking at it again the ball appears to leave the club face directly at the hole, there is no curve to the flight at all.   I may as well have aimed at the hole in the first place and hit the ding.

  And that's the thing for me, missing the ding does not produce a fade or draw.  It's missing the ding, not true shot shaping and will always have an element of risk to it.

• fatdan 3,379 Posts

  Wed, May 28 2014 2:12 AM

  gr8flbob:

  Example, 180 to pin, 15mph L-R crosswind and green has L-R downslope. Hitting the 'early line' left of ding, will compensate for 20mph x-wind, so I actually move the aiming point RIGHT of pin ~5yds or so (yes, down-wind!). I expect hitting that early line at left edge of lite blue 'near-ding' region will cost ~5% yardage so I club up to the 5iron (195yd), choke down a bit on power for ~190 yd result, and pull the trigger at the early line - the ball will start out curving into the wind until it loses velocity at the top of the flight arc where the wind will take over and drift it back close to the pin

  Why do it that way? Because in the situation I've described, it minimizes the down-wind (and down-hill!) roll of the ball after landing on the green. If the slope of the green was UP-HILL, left to right - with same L-R x-w2ind, then I'll go ahead and move the aiming point over left 10 yards or so, into the wind, and try to hit just a bit early 'into the wind' a few pixels before the ding line.

  Properly executed, you can draw or fade any club (but the putter) into the wind. The chart I put up earlier works for any club , PW thru driver, and is linear for any cross-wind from zero to 20mph - as long as shot type is FULL and extreme spin is not applied.

  I've tried that 50 times and once I landed 3 ft from the pin with lvl 97 Nikes, and it does NOT curve into the wind! What it does is while aiming right you PULL it straight left  back into the wind which brings it back to the pin if your lucky or like you have perfected it!

  This game is a program, if they didn't program the game to do something, you simply cannot do it...it's really that simple...if your DVD player doesn't have a record button you can't record!

  What it does have is a pull hook and slice of the tee for terribly mishit shots that you can use to an advantage if you want to play that shot for whatever reason, I have never ever seen the need to do it! You can also top a ball, fluff one, or just plain miss it, because the game is programmed to do it....but you CAN'T fade or draw the ball with irons because it isn't programmed to do it, it's an illusion if it looks like it does!

  Look at the map on the game screen, notice that ball stops way before the ball you played does...go to STA #1 with a tailwind and hit a drive you know is going into the hazzard, as soon as you hit it end the round while the ball is still in flight, then look at your balls(not those, game balls) and you will find that you lost a ball...why, because as SOON as you hit the ball the game has determined exactly where the ball will land because it is coded/programmed, no code no can do....

   

• 1,148 Posts

  Wed, May 28 2014 3:40 PM

  Answer is forgiveness 5 irons 5 precision irons will do it.

• jigglybutt 208 Posts

  Wed, May 28 2014 5:48 PM

  alexk345:

  Answer is forgiveness 5 irons 5 precision irons will do it.

  Is that the answer to the question that you were asking when you created this forum post?

  Or are you now giving advice on a subject you have been completely baffled by up until two days ago? :)

   

• MainzMan 9,591 Posts

  Wed, May 28 2014 11:02 PM

  alexk345:

  Answer is forgiveness 5 irons 5 precision irons will do it.

  You know that clubs that don't exist will do this?   Cool trick.

  Unless WGT somehow implement a fade and draw feature there is no way anyone can predictable make the ball curve.  I've done it a couple of time, at least I always thought I had.  Having said that I never replayed the shot from different cameras, perhaps the ball always just took off directly at the flag as it did in the replay I posted here.

  A missed ding is a missed ding, not a fade or draw.  In real life it would be a bad shot, nothing more.

• 893 Posts

  Wed, May 28 2014 11:44 PM

  jigglybutt:

  alexk345:

  Answer is forgiveness 5 irons 5 precision irons will do it.

  Is that the answer to the question that you were asking when you created this forum post?

  Or are you now giving advice on a subject you have been completely baffled by up until two days ago? :)

   

  Great question jiggly i really don't understand him most of the time and i'm starting to question is he even human.

   

• JFidanza 1,676 Posts

  Thu, May 29 2014 1:37 AM

  EDIT : to be clear, this method in the example below is not pertaining to fading/drawing or hooking/slicing etc. rather just dealing with a fast meter with a hazzard, etc]    

  [This doesn't apply much to anyone who isn't using a starter ball]

  The wonder of 'why hit a miss-ding at all?' may be understood by me, and anyone else who 1) commonly uses a starter ball w/ fast meter 2) someone who just can't seem to hit that silly dinger in time.

  In fig A [Normal/common method] the strong wind is blowing toward the water so you aim left and DING and land the ball by the hole. [drink a Heineken, etc.]

  In B the same thing is happening but, shucks, that super quick meter goes past so fast and you slice it and it rolls into the water like school kids on Spring break.

  In C, you pre-aim not-so-far left (compared to A) to prepare an intentional pre-ding which has a less element of risk because you have more likelihood & time to click before the meter gets past the point of no return.

  At worst you hit way too early but you still avoid the water and you're still set up for some kind of approach shot.

  From my observation the meter is at it's fastest around the point of the Ding, not so much before it. That's a key point.

   

  

  In test cases, speaking for myself, I have had less balls fall into the water attempting C than attempting A - (attempting A often has the common result of B)

  So, I'll set aim for a pre-ding to decrease the element of risk -

  and increase the achievability & chances of a non-detrimental green landing by allowing myself a larger margin of error.  [Drink a Miller Light]

   

  --

   

  EDIT: But, ya, after I soon get a R1 (98) all the credits I will amass will go to various Proshop balls.