@ Caddy
For your flops and pitches to stop and drop ^^, you'll need a bit more spin imo. So.........
I'd suggest switching balls to the Nike 80 (4.5 spin, 4.0 distance) or Nike Platinum 90 (5.0 spin, 5.0 distance). You're irons only have 2.0 spin so imo you really need a combined ball/iron spin rating of 6.5+. 80's cost the same as your current ball and the Platinums a tad bit more.
You need to map your pitches/flops. I like to use St Andrews #9, a short par 4 with a very flat mid - back green. You'll need to use mulligans (and it cost a bit!) and I like to use increments of 4% for each type of shot. Start around 46%, 50%, 54%, 58%, etc. Remember each grid box on the green is 2feet, so you can get a very precise land/roll distance charted. I prefer 100 b/s on all those shots. Only time I change it is if i need to tweak a shot for an exact yardage that I need (and am not getting).
Wind and aiming. Once you go to Kilbrau's page and get the right wind charts a precise way to actually aim is the pitching grid. For me, moving the grid's one full box works out to 1Y of L or R aim. Pitch > zoom > R click and zoom in 2x > move grids. Sometimes you'll need to use reverse hole zoom, and then right click and zoom in to see the grids well enough. Using this method you can expect to be within 0-6 foot left or right of the pin on virtually every shot. The down-side is it takes a bit more time to do.
Thanks and nod's goes out to JoshNosh who recently introduced me to using the pitch grid. Very very good aim! Ty my friend.