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Re: I need a FoolProof technique against cross winds

• fatdan 3,379 Posts

  Sat, May 24 2014 6:34 PM

  Your right, seeing is believing!

  You should play that fade back into the wind every time on approach shots and tee shots, keep us posted on how that works out for ya....

• JFidanza 1,676 Posts

  Sat, May 24 2014 8:03 PM

  I did try it!

  ...and it's accurate that IRONs, even off the tee, do not behave that way. That was the point I wanted clarification on. Because that is a big game changer in blitz or CTTH etc.

  The answers to my previous questions were simply 1) Yes 2) No 3) Yes.

  This is great info you have instilled for me, Dan, and thanks to all this insight I think it would be a great idea to test a lower yardage driver to use on Par 3, CTTH, blitz or the like.

  e.g. In a heavy crosswind to a diagonal green, try a TM SDLR 10.5 (252 max dis.) driver and hit it to at approx 94% power rather than a NIKE 3 iron (220 yd) at full power (which has no draw/fade) etc. etc. For this reason I will def add the product below* to my wishlist.

  I apologize for not being more clear with the terms - expressing 'approach to a diagonal green', but meaning 'driving to diagonal green' in that example, in which case I WILL use a draw/fade, and I will avoid aiming and adjusting in the normal manner, as with irons. This is what you were getting at all along, I'm sure.

  The 3W/Fairway woods seem to also behave like irons on my test shots, so I will completely rethink my game when deciding if i should use my driver or 3W off the tee. (which comes up every once and a while) 

  It's all good, I appreciate the info and I find it very helpful.

   

  ---

  * 

  TaylorMade R11 10.5 Driver (L29+) 1395 creds , 252 yrds

  3.5 prec.

  4.5 forg.

  meter 3.5

• JFidanza 1,676 Posts

  Sat, May 24 2014 8:57 PM

  Alex, I'm sure you've found out what is stated below is true. In high winds, no matter what the direction esp. with more BS you get more of the wind as the ball spends more time in the air. Sometimes I'll add top spin and adjust the power to roll low or on the ground, or change the shot type, just to negotiate an unfavorable wind.

  I concur with what they have said below:

  MBaggese

  "as you add some more back spin you will have to compensate more and more with the longer clubs, as the ball is in flight longer..."

  lonniescott711

  "You also have to consider spin on the ball , as well . Top sin , back spin , or no spin , all will affect ball flight" 

• MBaggese 15,367 Posts

  Sun, May 25 2014 12:05 AM

  I hope I can sum this up...lol...

   

  I've only hit a few rounds here, but tried many different things.

   

  My limited experience is:

   

  You can work the ball off the tee with a driver-again, never tried with an iron...

   

  I have worked the ball off the fairway with my 3 wood...

   

  I had epic fails when trying with irons.

   

  Now it not like I have 1000's of rounds/shots, under my belt;), but just what I have observed.

   

  Hope this helps:)

• MBaggese 15,367 Posts

  Sun, May 25 2014 12:11 AM

  alexk345:

  Slow meter makes it everything easy. Less cushion you need as you can ding 75% of time.

  In effect, yes, it allows you to click when you want.  But you have to cut the Ding-imbelicle cord...

   

  Why...I'd sure like to see someone aim in a 31 MPH cross wind with spin clubs and spin balls, using full BS, ding the shot from 200 yards, and be withing 6 feet....my personal opinion, there just isn't enough room on the mini map for that aim....lol.

   

   

• ScottHope 10,442 Posts

  Sun, May 25 2014 1:34 AM

  For me, trying to fade or draw a drive is fraught with danger, the examples of mine that have been linked to in this thread are extreme examples of what can be achieved but the best advice, in my opinion, for wind compensation on drives is from gr8flbob.....

  

  .....and that is just to miss ding to allow your drive to track a relatively straight path.

  I may be missing something (more than likely) but it seems to me that if you want to simulate a fade/draw shot to avoid a hazzard you have to aim so far left/right to avoid the shot going left/right straight off the tee before the fade/draw actually starts to occur that it almost cancels the effect out.

• 1,148 Posts

  Sun, May 25 2014 11:19 AM

  Fade draw work well for Uneven lie. 

• skccvb 799 Posts

  Sun, May 25 2014 11:36 AM

  full sidewind, multiply .6 x yardage + elevation.  ie 200 yds, 15 mph, aim 9 yards away from flag. No spin/topspin, ding it. BS, off ding into wind. The more spin in the equation, the more off-ding (but add yardage to offset loss of distance on off-ding)- spin = club + ball total dots

• fatdan 3,379 Posts

  Sun, May 25 2014 11:49 AM

  skccvb:

  (but add yardage to offset loss of distance on off-ding)

   

  When I barely hit early into the wind(pull) I find that the ball doesn't lose any distance in fact it's longer half the time...now when I barely miss into the wind late(push) it loses yardage....anybody else see that?

• Jimbog1964 8,378 Posts

  Sun, May 25 2014 1:39 PM

  L90 ball wise much BS into any wind, and may as well have a parachute attached to it.   No spin or very little, I do not see any overt difference in distance by missing slightly into the wind.  

  My biggest problem is always working out just what that wind is doing, studying both camera angles and then trying to pick exactly the affect on distance.  

  Amount of times I am short or long only to get up there and see a wind arrow different to what I had "guestimated" from my view's are many.  I am sure better players just know or have notes of what happened last time that situation that hole, but I just whack away:)