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Re: I need a FoolProof technique against cross winds

Mon, Jul 28 2014 9:42 AM (85 replies)
  • jigglybutt
    208 Posts
    Mon, May 26 2014 12:21 PM

    alexk345:

    Longer iron if i hit with wind its goner. Longer iron i click other side of ding to reduce wind effectiveness and hit more.

    but have seen people pepper the flag with >200 iron shots. 

    Here's one right here, not a lottery shot and it's with wgt balls. It can be done hitting the long irons at the hole from a good distance.  

    replay.aspx?ID=8b526bea feaf 4417 9981 a25d01509022

    You've seen people pepper the flag from 200+ yards because it's a completely possible shot. In no way is being 140+ out a lottery type shot like you said earlier in this thread.

    No shot is a lottery shot if you hit it how it's supposed to be hit. Can't hit them all perfect though, way too many variables.

    It's more how you come back from bad shots that matter. possibly even more important than hitting every single shot within 3 feet of the flag.

  • fatdan
    3,379 Posts
    Mon, May 26 2014 12:52 PM

    Lottery shot? Just aim at the hole, whats so hard about that!

    replay.aspx?ID=2ebb6b07 f08a 402b a8a3 a30e0169d06a

  • andwhy67
    2,816 Posts
    Mon, May 26 2014 1:02 PM
  • jigglybutt
    208 Posts
    Mon, May 26 2014 1:38 PM

    fatdan:

    Lottery shot? Just aim at the hole, whats so hard about that!

    replay.aspx?ID=2ebb6b07 f08a 402b a8a3 a30e0169d06a

     

    Just slamming it in there! Epic replay. Both you and andy vn shots.

  • fatdan
    3,379 Posts
    Mon, May 26 2014 1:39 PM

    25mph @ RSG #15

    Show off {:-p ....

  • SplashLewis
    363 Posts
    Tue, May 27 2014 7:31 AM

    Here is the math (the actual formula is complicated, but this is very very close).

    Yardage to the pin = YTP

    Wind Speed = WS

    headwind = 0

    60 degree (off the horizontal) = YTP/100 x WS x 0.2

    30 degree  = YTP/100 x WS x 0.4

    sidewind =  YTP/100 x WS

     

    so if the pin is 200 yds away and the wind is 18mph, then straight sidewind will push the ball 36 feet..

     30% sidewind will push the ball 14ft and 60% sidewind will push the ball 7ft

  • JFidanza
    1,676 Posts
    Tue, May 27 2014 2:21 PM

    I'll be brief about a technique I use esp. with a fast meter ball like the starter. If I'm going into a wind that's blowing from R to L, I will adj my aim the calculated distance to the right, of course.

    But knowing that if I try for ding and hit early that may be drastic, so I adj. by putting the aim not so far R (because I'm going to try a small slice, this allows me to let the meter go past ding a little, which avoids the hook more easy than trying for ding alone)  The thing is to know that, say, you 4 iron shaves off  approx 15 feet when you slice a tad etc etc.

     

  • gr8flbob
    592 Posts
    Tue, May 27 2014 5:18 PM

    fatdan:
    {SNIP}

    ... you CAN'T DRAW a ball into a crosswind on a approach shot....

    Dan, let's just agree to disagree, Maybe, you can't hit a draw (or fade)  into a cross-wind, but I can ... with high-end aproach clubs:  3W - PW. Wedges gets a bit trickier, but that's a whole different part of the game.

    I now agree with Dan's statement for most approach shots. The exceptions are the 3 wood and driver (in the case of long par 3's).

    If one can consistently hit their 'target' trigger-point off-ding early, at the cost of predictable slight loss in yardage, they can 'over-compensate' for existing crosswind and pull it off. I don't always use that technique, but it does dome in handy in certain situations.

    Example, 180 to pin, 15mph L-R crosswind and green has L-R downslope. Hitting the 'early line' left of ding, will compensate for 20mph x-wind, so I actually move the aiming point RIGHT of pin ~5yds or so (yes, down-wind!). I expect hitting that early line at left edge of lite blue 'near-ding' region will cost ~5% yardage so I club up to the 5iron (195yd), choke down a bit on power for ~190 yd result, and pull the trigger at the early line - the ball will start out curving as a straight 'pull' (as if clubhead were closed at impact) to left of aiming point into the wind until it loses velocity at the top of the flight arc where the wind will take over and drift it back right close to the pin.

    Note: changed above wording, in response to FatDan (and other's) feedback. In follow-up through testing of all my irons, with a variety of spin dot settings and the entire hittable 'off-ding region' in low winds, I could not detect any crurvature of the flight path that could be called 'hooks' 'draws', 'fades', or 'pushes'.

    The 3 wood does have mild draw and fade if hit far enough (early dark blue or late dark blue, respectively.

    Why do it that way? Because in the situation I've described, it minimizes the down-wind (and down-hill!) roll of the ball after landing on the green. If the slope of the green was UP-HILL, left to right - with same L-R x-w2ind, then I'll go ahead and move the aiming point over left 10 yards or so, into the wind, and try to hit just a bit early 'into the wind' a few pixels before the ding line.

    Properly executed, you can draw or fade any club (but the putter) into the wind. The chart I put up earlier works for any club , PW thru driver, and is linear for any cross-wind from zero to 20mph - as long as shot type is FULL and extreme spin is not applied.

    The yardage lost due to intentionally missing the ding early (or late, for right to left crosswinds) is NOT linear! It's 5% at outer edge of lite blue region around the ding line, but is almost negligible near the ding line.

    Different strokes for different folks, lol.

  • navigater
    1,319 Posts
    Tue, May 27 2014 5:43 PM

    I need one for my brain .keeps drifting.

    navi

     

  • JFidanza
    1,676 Posts
    Tue, May 27 2014 7:12 PM

    gr8flbob said:

     Maybe, you can't hit a draw (or fade)  into a cross-wind, but I can ... with high-end aproach clubs:  3W - PW. Wedges gets a bit trickier, but that's a whole different part of the game. 

    ---------

     

    I've been applying this method for a while, and I've recently started to rethink if it was working and that is still ongoing and partially inconclusive. But similar to the reasons you have stated I've displayed a few diagrams in this thread to show why I would try it. 

    My question to you, if you have the info will be considered, is as follows: Are my clubs part of what you would say are the 'higher end'  ones that could apply the draw/fade on approach? I see you have the NIKE 97s. I have the 85s. Any additional info about this working w/ starter balls (0 spin rating) vs a better ball would be welcome, as well.

    My recent tests in a high crosswind game seemingly indicated that the driver was fading/drawing but the other clubs were not,

    gr8flbob If you choose to respond on my wall rather than here, I would have no issue, and I thank you in advance for your input on this common rudiment of golf technique.

     

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