fatdan: {SNIP}
... you CAN'T DRAW a ball into a crosswind on a approach shot....
Dan, let's just agree to disagree, Maybe, you can't hit a draw (or fade) into a cross-wind, but I can ... with high-end aproach clubs: 3W - PW. Wedges gets a bit trickier, but that's a whole different part of the game.
I now agree with Dan's statement for most approach shots. The exceptions are the 3 wood and driver (in the case of long par 3's).
If one can consistently hit their 'target' trigger-point off-ding early, at the cost of predictable slight loss in yardage, they can 'over-compensate' for existing crosswind and pull it off. I don't always use that technique, but it does dome in handy in certain situations.
Example, 180 to pin, 15mph L-R crosswind and green has L-R downslope. Hitting the 'early line' left of ding, will compensate for 20mph x-wind, so I actually move the aiming point RIGHT of pin ~5yds or so (yes, down-wind!). I expect hitting that early line at left edge of lite blue 'near-ding' region will cost ~5% yardage so I club up to the 5iron (195yd), choke down a bit on power for ~190 yd result, and pull the trigger at the early line - the ball will start out curving as a straight 'pull' (as if clubhead were closed at impact) to left of aiming point into the wind until it loses velocity at the top of the flight arc where the wind will take over and drift it back right close to the pin.
Note: changed above wording, in response to FatDan (and other's) feedback. In follow-up through testing of all my irons, with a variety of spin dot settings and the entire hittable 'off-ding region' in low winds, I could not detect any crurvature of the flight path that could be called 'hooks' 'draws', 'fades', or 'pushes'.
The 3 wood does have mild draw and fade if hit far enough (early dark blue or late dark blue, respectively.
Why do it that way? Because in the situation I've described, it minimizes the down-wind (and down-hill!) roll of the ball after landing on the green. If the slope of the green was UP-HILL, left to right - with same L-R x-w2ind, then I'll go ahead and move the aiming point over left 10 yards or so, into the wind, and try to hit just a bit early 'into the wind' a few pixels before the ding line.
Properly executed, you can draw or fade any club (but the putter) into the wind. The chart I put up earlier works for any club , PW thru driver, and is linear for any cross-wind from zero to 20mph - as long as shot type is FULL and extreme spin is not applied.
The yardage lost due to intentionally missing the ding early (or late, for right to left crosswinds) is NOT linear! It's 5% at outer edge of lite blue region around the ding line, but is almost negligible near the ding line.
Different strokes for different folks, lol.