Some unsolicited advice for those from the states traveling to Scotland to play golf, from a fellow American who has done 2 trips and played 21 different courses there, playing with 100+ year old hickory clubs. Made in Scotland, of course.
My first trip was 2 weeks long, and I went solo - using only public transportation to get around the country. My second trip was 5 days. I went with a good friend and fellow hickory player and historian, and rented a car. Both of them self planned.
I get it. You want the bucket list courses. You want to say "Been there, done that." Maybe you want to play the courses in the Open rota. Maybe you just want the newer courses that will keep you in your comfort zone, offer buggies (riding carts), and have all the feel of American golf, only inside Scotland. Those courses all exist. Knock yourself out - I won't be fighting you for a tee time. :)
But to get the real, true and deeper feeling and meaning of what golf in Scotland is all about... go play the courses you've NEVER heard of. Portmahomack. Anstruther. Dunbar. Kilspindie. The list goes on and on and on. Heck, you'll be surprised to discover many Scots haven't heard of them.
Play 9 hole courses. Play 12 hole courses - and along the way discover that 12 holes might just be the perfect amount of holes!
Play Fortrose and Rosemarkie - walking 18 holes in 2 hours and 35 minutes. Without rushing, and taking many pictures.
Play courses that have changed very little but have been around long before the US became a country. Embrace and respect their history. Ask questions of the members and the staff, they love to share their game and the history of their course. Musselburgh Old Course comes to mind!
Play short courses. Learn that a course doesn't have to be 8 million yards long to be challenging and tremendous fun.
Don't keep score. Remember the shots, not the score. I can't tell you what I shot on the Old Course when I got on through the singles queue (rest in peace!), but I can tell you I shot par on the Road hole. No idea what my score was at Anstruther, but can tell you all about the 2 members I played with (both caddies at St Andrews) and their stories...as well as those of the staff I shared a pint with after the round. I'll always fondly remember meeting 2 members at Portmahomack (Tarbat) on the last 2 holes of our round, and then walking to one of their homes for a wee dram and some coffee. All within 5 hours of landing in Scotland.
Not only be open to playing with members, but seek out those opportunities. You'll find a happiness you didn't know existed...at least not in American golf.
WALK. (Not much choice on this one!)
Enjoy the game. Realize it's so very much more than the bastardization we've made it here in America.
The big courses are nice, for sure. But it's the smaller, local, much more intimate courses in Scotland where you'll truly find what golf is really all about, and I promise you'll make some incredible friends along the way.
If you've read this far - thanks. None of this was said pretentiously or to impress.