I personally NEVER chip a shot---it's much more likely to hang up , come up short, or scoot right off your target line.
The flop is difficult to master until you take out the right drift that happens on a perfect ding.
I do this by stopping the meter as soon as it enters the blue hit zone--well left of the ding..
I look at my breakline in reverse chip mode and pick out my line ...it has resulted in many flop in's and many saved pars.
Most golfers start a round not prepared for the conditions they will face. These are players you see in the 66-72 averages and seem to be hung up there.
The “EDIT YOUR CLUBS” option is there for a reason. Wind speed--green speed and elevation should give you hints on equipping your bag and choosing a ball .
Buy yourself enough wedges and balls to have those options of choice.
TAYLORMADE wedges are by far your best wedges in spin and lower costs.
I have bought and played EVERY club set WGT offers.. The R11's are good clubs--if you have the hand / eye co-ordination it takes to hit the faster ding. Lmao!!
I like the Ping G-20's --both woods and irons. They cost less, are just as accurate and have high trajectory, and have a slower swing meter than the R-11's.
I personally keep my TaylorMade 50 yard wedge ALWAYS IN MY BAG because of it’s ability to get the ball up quickly from fairway--rough or sand and still bite the green with accuracy. Mix and match your wedges to the course you are playing.
On the low flat courses of Andy's and the Island--I use the 110 yard TayorMade--the 75 or 77 yard, and the 110 yard wedges. On the courses that have elevation changes, I'll change those up to a 115 wedge or 98 yard one.
This is trial and error time for you to learn each hole. Some courses protect their par's very well..and some holes are so tough, I'll just go for the center of the green, get my two putts in and be happy with a par. You'll learn WHICH SIDE of the green has the least break.
Only Stroke play rounds are recorded in your stats, and will help you over time to see what area of your game needs work.
At Master Tiers and below, you are “Driving and wedging” your way around the course. Your stats page will show how effective you are on the course.
Driving stats in the 70--85% range indicates if you are driving it in the fairway or rough. The GIR (Greens in Regulation) stat is just as important. Those numbers should be in the 80% + range..
I sometimes hit a 3 wood off the tee---or punch a Driver to put the ball in the best position for my next shot.
It’s better to hit it 250--275 yards in the fairway than 325 yards into rough. 20--25% rough can be fairly easy to recover from..40--60+ % is very tough by comparison.
You lose the ability to put spin on the ball out of rough is my point.
Balls play an important choice in that regard. I won’t give away my secrets jst yet there--but to say the Nike’s and Callaway’s are as different as night and day in both driving and putting.