well after all this time i just looked at this post, due to me not making sure all what i wanted posted wasn't. SORRY, it happens, this formula wasn't stolen or meant to take from anyones ideas or facts,but using the basic STARTER putter Formula, any type of putter can be Calibrated, for the purpose of Distances. Ive had multiple putters and rented a few and have notes on all of what i have used, & what i discovered was eye opening, to me as well as allot of players,
Ok here is the break down, When calibrating the 1.st thing you should do, for quick reference!. is write down the total # of movements, Per Each Power Setting, Example, using the 300foot setting, It has a total of 9 movements. Write down how much power Per movement is Totaling.. Example. 1st. move. 33.33ft. 2.moves= 66.66ft. 3.moves 99.99ft. 4.moves133.32ft. 5.moves166.64ft. 6. moves199.97ft. 7.moves233.31ft. 8.moves266.64ft. 9.moves299.97ft.
Now, after counting out each movement Per each setting, Than make a graph for quick reference!
NOTE!
Ok, you Must Always Use This Rule! > ADD 1.Foot, per every INCH going up Hill, To get your total Distance. & Subtract 1.Foot Per every Inch going down.
Below, is the Starter Putter formula.
- 30 foot setting = 5 moves X 6.ft = 30ft. so its = 6ft. `12ft. 18ft. 24ft. 30ft per movement
- 60 foot setting = 5 moves X 12.ft = 60ft. = 12. ft, 24ft, 36.ft. 48ft . & so on, GOT IT?
- 150 Ft setting = 9 moves X 16. 66" = 150ft
- 300 Ft setting = 9 moves X 33. 33" = 300ft
TIP: Watch the green speeds! On faster greens you may find your 6 foot putts travel an additional foot or two. You'll need to adjust your ranges for the varying green speeds.
If you're using a putter other than the Starter, you'll need to apply the formula and figure out the movements for yourself. Draw the putter back slowly and count each time your avatar physically moves. Note the space between the movements to see if they are the same. If they are the same then this is easy. You simply divide the number of feet (30, 60, 90 etc) by the number of movements. If all but the last movement is equal then most likely the last movement is a half and you'll need to do a little guessing. For example, the 60ft iWi Anser putter scale has 7 full movements and 1 half movement. If we multiply 7.5 x 8, we get 60. After a few putts of verification, you'll know if you guessed your measurements right.
TIP: When you purchase a new putter, always map your distances first in a practice round! Start with standard speed to get your baseline and then move to the green speed that you play the most.
BONUS TIP: Male and Female avatars have different ranges and movement numbers on the same putters! For example, Female avatars using the 30 foot starter putter actually have 6 movements with 5 feet per movement instead of 5 for 6 like the men. Be sure to watch out for this ladies!
Having plenty of speed is important, because an ideal putt does not fall in the front door drunk. If you are not familiar with the phrase "Never up, never in", it's all about leaving your putt short. The ball can't go in the hole if it doesn't have enough power to get there, so good putts will always have enough speed to run 2 or 3 feet beyond the hole. The added speed is important and helps the putt "hold the line" so it will roll more true.
When it comes to elevation changes the general rule of thumb is to add 1 foot of power for every inch uphill and subtract 1 foot for each inch downhill. Please remember that this is not an exact formula. Green speed will have a lot to do with your calculation here, so practice is the only way to zero in on the right approach. Tinker with it and you'll eventually find the right touch that works for you.
Downhill putts generally go slow. We strike them with less force because we don't want to ram them way past the hole. When you are putting downhill you can expect the break to have a more noticeable effect because the ball does not have as much forward motion to fight the break. Conversely, uphill putts move faster and break less because they are struck firmly with enough power to fight against the break. When you're putting uphill you're not usually worried about going too far past the hole, so don't be afraid to hit it. Give it a good stroke and expect less break than normal. Just like the PGA Pros, you'll want to familiarize yourself with the topography of the greens. Knowing where to land your approach so you leave yourself a straight uphill putt is crucial to knocking off those extra strokes, especially on difficult courses like Oakmont where position is everything on the green.
Finally, always... ALWAYS pay extra special attention to the color of the putting grid. Black sections are flat, blue sections indicate an uphill swing and red sections indicate downhill. The more vibrant the color, the more severe the change in elevation.
Also, here is the True to form explanation of Green Speeds,
Explaining the formula in the chat box during game play, however, could be distracting to players not interested in the knowledge. It seemed to me that more advantage would be gained by referring players to here for proper perusal - good digestion is key to every diet, and that includes golfing tips.
This formula is a three step process. I recommend that players shoot a round or two solo when first learning to apply it. The shot clock has an unnerving affect on my arithmetic, and I hope to correctly assume that I'm not the only person who can't add under pressure.
First, let's lay down some constants:
Tournament Speed = -30% (yes, that's a minus sign)
Very Fast = -20%
Fast =-0%
Standard =+10%
Slow =+20%
Got that? It's a predictable trend, and since most of us end up shooting on Very Fast or Tournament greens, only the top two are really important to remember. Now, for the formula:
Distance = ((feet to cup - (percentage) + Xft) + (elevation x 1ft)
Confusing, right? Here's an example:
Imagine that you're 18ft from the cup on a Very Fast green, and the blue panel has a down arrow with 3in. That means that the cup is 3 inches below the ball, right? Let's apply the formula:
18ft - 20% = 14.4ft. On a VERY FAST green, add 2 feet to that for 16.4ft. Now, subtract 3 feet (3in drop, remember?) and you get 13.4 feet. As always, add a little bit more to your putt so it doesn't stop right on the rim. So you'd shoot this for about 14ft.
But what if the panel indicates a rise of, say, 4 inches? Let's see:
18ft - 20% = 14.4ft. Add 2 feet to that for 16.4 ft. So far the same. But this time, we ADD 4 feet because the cup is 4 inches HIGHER than the ball. So in this case, we have a total distance of 20.4 feet. Again, remember to add a little to that to make sure the ball doesn't stop an inch short. I would shoot this one about 21.4 feet to make sure.
Now let's work these two examples for a Tournament green:
3 inch drop - 18ft. -30% = 12.6 ft. Add ONE foot for 13.6ft. Now subtract the 3 feet for the 3 in. drop, you get 10.6 feet. Again, add just a tiny bit. I'd shoot this 18 foot putt about 11.5 ft worth.
4 inch rise - 18ft. -30% = 12.6ft. Add ONE foot for 13.6ft. Now ADD 4 feet for the 4in. rise, for a total of 17.6ft. Now add a foot to that (my rule of thumb, on long level putts and uphill putts I add a foot. Less for downhill). Your total is 18.6ft.
Hopefully you can see the trend. Just think percentage (Tournament = -30%, VF = -20%, etc), then add either one or two feet (depending on VF or T), then account for drop or rise by adding or subtracting a foot for every inch or rise or drop, as necessary. Then add a bit to make sure. Once you get into the rhythm it becomes second nature.
This takes PRACTICE! But mastering this formula will guarantee that you'll almost never three-putt a green again.
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