I will post write a second post in this thread addressing your issue with wind offset and power. This will address your question about which ball and offer some advice about club mapping.
It is not my intention to "talk down" to you - you've been here a while so you're not a "newbie". At the same time, the fact that you've made Legend without mapping your clubs tells me that you are one hack of a fine player (also says you have more patience than I do - 'guesstimating' what my clubs would do would drive me nuts!) If you find this too simplistic, just ignore it - I hope that it will help someone!
First, the ball: There have to be over 100 pages of opinions about various balls in this Forum. Maybe another 50 or so on the affect of spin on accuracy. A "consensus summary" says that the greater the amount of back spin the larger deviation(s) under all wind conditions. Generally, the balls offering the most spin (and distance) are a little more expensive. If your clubs aren't the "absolute best", why spend big $ for balls that require the best clubs to take advantage of the balls' characteristics?
The ball that you are using, the Callaway 53 is a good one but the durability is 2. This means that you will get around 100 shots out of it over it's lifetime (drive/wood/iron/wedge shots).
A lot of pretty good players have been singing the praises of the Callaway 33 for years. It costs 250 credits with a durability of 2.5 and its performance is said to be about the most
consistent in the PRO Shop.
I would recommend the Cally 33. But whatever you choose, STICK with it. Don't go jumping around changing balls all the time. The PGA Pros don't do this, why would you? If you stick with 1 ball, your club mapping will be beneficial. (SAY WHAT?) OK each ball has its own set of peculiarities. Mapping your clubs with a Cally 33, then jumping to a Nike 92 RZN Platinum Vapor Ball and expecting the same performance is crazy (and it won't be the BIG BAD VEM causing your shots to wander all over the course).
As for club mapping - again volumes written about the process. To map the clubs go to 1 course (BPB Back 9), practice game, low wind (still hoping WGT will give us a 'no wind' option), with your ball of choice. Get on the fairway, choose the club, choose the spin, DING it toward the pin. Now record how far it traveled when it hit the ground and how far it rolled to the stop. When the screen moves for the next shot: pull the aiming triangle back toward to Tee box (i.e. direction opposite to your first shot). Choose the same club & spin - DING it back up the course & record "air travel" and ground roll. Average the numbers to cancel the effect of wind and record them on your 'Club Map". If you don't DING it, your numbers will not be quite as accurate. This is a boring & expensive exercise (I used over 2 sleeves to map my irons).
When I mapped my clubs I recorded results with Full Top Spin, No Spin, and Full Back Spin - at "FULL" power" and at "PUNCH". I have found that the Full Top Spin numbers are worthless & will not do that when I get new irons.
For the Wedges, I also included numbers for Pitch, Chip, and Flop. Your wedges are going to be super sensitive to spin. Full Top Spin is meaningful with your wedges.
Lot's said - hope some of it helps!