Hi Everyone,
I am still pretty new to this game, but, since I started on August
12th (about a month ago) I have experienced a plethora of
feelings while playing more than 66 full rounds of Golf; feelings such as:
“Frustration” (playing the Olympic Club with heavy wind); “Glory” when sinking
my first Hole-in-One; and “Confusion” while I watch the ball go far off target
from the meter and my aim. During all this excitement I have watched many
YouTube videos and read many forum posts about everything from wind calculation
to green speeds. Some of the content was useful in helping me get a grip
of the game, but ultimately, “Practice,” “Experience,” and “Perspective” have
paid me the most.
I wanted to provide a blog post and forum discussion revolving
around a certain shift I had to make in my mind; a complete shift in my
approach to the game. This is a similar approach I have recently taken
with my real-world golf game, though, I could never afford to have the
inventory of clubs I can have on WGT.
I want to present two fundamental aspects of my approach that have
really cleaned up my scorecards. I am not going to be discussing anything at
the super advanced level and cannot get you to land every approach shot within
1 foot of the green and nail 16 birdies and 2 eagles every round.
However, I can offer a different way of looking at putting and club
selection. This article will focus on Club selection, and I will produce
my putting perspective in another post, at a later date.
CLUB SELECTION:
When I started I realized “FAST” that I would live in a world of
frustration unless I had playable equipment. I built my set one piece at
a time, and just as I didn’t think I would have any use for a 3H, I was sold
after landing a long approach (that didn’t roll off the green) while renting
the “NIKE Vapor Fly 3H (L-49).”
Well Jeremy, I am going to give it a whirl if I can remember to change each set that is, thanks for your input.
GC.
Here is my Current Inventory:
Driver: Callaway Big Bertha 10.5° Driver (Fubuki shaft) (L18+)
3W: Callaway Big Bertha 3 Fairway Wood (L19+)
3H: NIKE Vapor Fly 3 Hybrid (L49+)
52: Cleveland 588 52° Wedge (L26+)
56: Cleveland 588 56° Wedge (L27+)
58: TaylorMade ATV 58° Wedge (L39+)
60: Cleveland 588 60° Wedge (L29+)
64: Cleveland 588 64° Wedge (L31+)
64: TaylorMade ATV 64° Wedge (L39+)
Irons: TaylorMade R11 Iron Set (Steel) (L32+)
Putter: TaylorMade Ghost Manta Putter (L30+)
I want to propose a shift in thinking, however, that one’s set
must always contain Driver, 3W, 3H, and 2 Wedges. This thought had
occurred to me when I purchased all four “Cleveland 588 Wedges,” and the
“Taylor Made ATV 58 & 64” I wanted to run all off them. I will always
wish that I could remove my 3, 4, and 5 Irons and run more wedges like I do in
my physical set at home; I’ve dropped those Irons from my bag and run a 52, 56,
60, and 64; soon, I will be dropping my stock “PW” for a 48.
As you can see, as far as WGT goes, I have more clubs than I can
fit in one bag. However, each club gets used in play. As a
Microsoft Excel nerd, I keep track of nearly everything and even run my own
analytics, which is another topic for another day. But, I will tell you
that I keep track of performance for each course, and each tee position; I
adjust the club selection list for "each course" (or more broadly
"each condition") as I play.
I have outlined a few of my club sets, based on a few sample
conditions that we have all certainly played.
Condition 1: (Standard bag for Kiawah,
white tee)
Driver, CL-52, CL-56, CL-60, CL-64, Irons, Putter
As you can see, I have no 3W or 3H. At my currently level
and tee position, for this course, I find that I can use a 3I anytime I would
need to use a 3W or 3H. What I sacrifice are eagle opportunities on
approachable par 5s for more precise options on short par 4 approaches.
The 3I in this case, lands most long-par-4’s and when it doesn’t, I play back
from the green about 60 yards in order to set up an accurate wedge
approach. Also, my driver set at 85% will act as a 3W off the tee when
driving shorter distance. Consider playing this bag or similar, on Kiawah
and get a feel of it for yourself; see if it sharpens your score. This
set is designed to reduce bogeys, rather than produce birdies; birdies will
come as a result of consistent approaches and well executed putts.
Condition 2: (Standard
bag for Brackets)
Driver, 3H, CL-52, ATV-58, CL-64, Irons, Putter
This is the bag I use when entering a bracket tournament since I
won’t know which Tee I will be playing from and will need as much “Versatility”
with driving distance and a “Wide-range” of wedge distances for approaches as
possible.
As you can see, I have my 3H to cover for short drives and par-5
second/mid-stretch shots. The ATV-58 is key here since I would really
rather play a 56 and 60, but it fills the gap between the needed 52 and 64,
which are both a must.
52 = 105 yds.
58 = 86 yds.
64 = 60 yds.
Condition 3: (Standard bag for “Best of
Bandon par 3” and “Best of WGT par 3”)
3H, CL-52, ATV-58, CL-64, ATV 64, Irons, Putter
CL-52 = 105 yds.
ATV-58 = 86 yds.
CL-64 = 60 yds.
ATV 64 = 50 yds.
The two keys in this bag are the 3H and the ATV-64.
My 3H will land better than my 3W (I hate it when the ball lands and then
rolls off the green) and there are not enough long distance holes to justify
even having a driver in the bag. Second key is my ATV 64. It is so
handy to have when playing BB par 3 with heavy wind. Even the best
players, I imagine, will miss the green due to heavy wind and I have found the
ATV 64 to get me better positions from “edge rough,” or “along the edge of a
bunker that is close to the pin,” and reduces the second disastrous stroke
which sales far past the pin resulting in a likely bogey or worse.
Condition 4: (Standard bag for “Best of
WGT par 5” and “courses with many long par 4’s”)
Driver, 3W, 3H, CL-52, CL-60, Irons, Putter
CL-52 = 105 yds.
CL-64 = 75 yds.
This bag looks pretty standard, but I have seen some bags use a
(56 and 64) rather than the (52, and 60). The real key to this bag is
making sure to set up your third shot as close to 105 yds. Or 75 yds. As
possible. It won’t work very well to just get the ball down the tunnel as
far as you can each time and then deal with your third shot whereever it lies;
this is called “Course Management.” I got 9 birdies, an eagle, and only 2
bogeys last time I played the course, just by executing course management.
Finally, I will conclude this post by emphasizing how extremely
important it is to have a 52. If you are not playing one, you need this
in every bag (it is the only club I own that is literally in every bag).
It will land softer and more accurately than any PW or 9I I have rented at my
current level (Level 50, as of 9/8/16). The GAP wedge was introduced due to PGA
player demand (back in the 1980’s) because they desired a wedge that could be
relied on to cover the distance “The GAP” between PW and SW at the time.
Thanks to everyone who stayed tuned to this post and I look
forward to hearing your thoughts and discussion thread.
Best,
Jeremy Grogan