BillyTBudMan:
Mr. Chrisironsbones...I guess my point is regardless of what green speed, or how many feet of power equals a certain distance, had the put in question been hit accordingly, it would've been hit to go several feet passed the hole, whether it be with 5, 7, 14, or 2 feet of power. Am i wrong in my thinking? It is my understanding after reading your post, that on tournament greens, a 10' distance putt, hit with 10' feet of putting power, will travel approximately 14 - 15 ' on a level green, and a 10' foot distance putt hit with 7' of power will travel 10', but a 10' putt hit with 6.5' or 6' may travel 10', but may also only travel 9' 2", leaving the putt 10" short. I suppose my question is was the putt in question hit with the proper amount of power (min. 7') or was the distance given off by 10"? In my opinion it matters little what the answer is, as any and all putts should be hit to travel an absolute minimum of 1' passed the hole, which in this particular case, even if the distance was off by the 10", the putt would've still gone in as it would have had the extra 2" of travel causing the ball to end exactly in the center of the cup, as the cup is 4" (approx.) in diameter. Another question i have is are the measurements given to the cup measured to the front edge of the cup, or to the center of the hole?
I think that is the point. When the poster said the putt was hit 'accordingly', I am certain that meant to 1'-2' past the hole. On a 10' putt with 0 elevation (and for a 10' putt, I personally check for dips and humps along the putt's track), on tourney greens about 7.5', or 1/2 of a 15' meter. That is what most usually. I myself play -20% on tourney greens, so I hit a 10' putt a bit above 8', and almost never miss because I hit too hard. My misses are usually within 1' and past the hole, unless they lip out and pick up speed (hate when that happens). I know people that say they subtract up to 33% on tourney greens, but I myself know I would miss a lot of putts short that way. To me, a putt that falls in on it's last couple of rotations is a lucky mishit. But that's me.
As was mentioned, if it doesn't get to the hole, it can't go in.
As for pitches, chips, flop, etc., I play the top CG64 degree, and I play nothing but full shot from off the green within 40 yards. With full backspin, they will stop on almost any green from almost any lie. Outside 40', I don't play BS because they will run backwards. Above 50', they will back up a few feet on flat greens even without BS, and several yards with. Of course, that changes some with real strong tailwind. Try to play a full shot from the fringe, with the top CG play 8' past the cup with full BS, and aim for the pin. If you are using a top Satin or a lower CG, play 5' past the cup with full BS, because it will roll a bit. On almost all greens unless the grade at the cup is severe, the CG will land a few feet in front and either go in or stop 1'-2' past. The Satin will stop several feet from the cup and roll a yard or two. Some use this method with punch instead of full, but I feel I can control the full shot better. It almost totally takes reading the green out of shots from around the green. I have heard it referred to as 'lazy golf'. But it's not that I don't know how to play a chip or a pitch. I have tried those as well. And this method probably would fail miserably in the real world of golf, but here? Get good with the 64 degree, it's not lazy so much as precise. I will say, if you are shooting at a cup on a severe grade, land the CG 64(80) above the cup, it will take a little hop with the grade before rolling forward.
Also, I was hesitant to swap out my Satin64, since I was so good with it, but this CG64 is the bomb. I am making more shots than ever from off the green.