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Putting Tip: Distance Control

Mon, Jan 2 2023 5:14 PM (1,173 replies)

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Jimbog1964

8,378 Posts

Wed, Aug 13 2014 12:06 PM

spy88:
So you are categorically stating that great stats is a direct correlation to players moving the aim line more often then not?

Yes. Now 3 foot away and a slight break may just miss a little only to hold the line, but that's about it.

spy88:
Yet you tell me I need to learn to putt better

Apologies my bad with the brevity of the written word. I had ?d the 10 foot wedge, and based it on that.

spy88:
Yet you tell me I need to learn to putt better and to forget the "fancy" calcs.".

For clarity no offense intended, and I said I never went through your calcs. I have no idea how fancy or indeed how simple not your one's are as really never looked at all. Again apologies for any offense caused - it was unintentional.

My point was aimed more generally at any one else reading this who might be new and struggling what to use. To become a good putter fancy calcs are not needed IMO. Now on the latter point I can't generalise for everyone, and would not presume to. I would say that distance control wise I have come across several taking 10 - 30 seconds with some super calc, and get no closer than my simple 2 seconds 75% distance then =/- elevation for "normal" Legend speed with simple common sense also used (fully highlighted in another thread linked to above). I have seen some get in a real muddle some holes though, and for no good reason IMO.

Now I fully appreciate I am am no top anything but play OK on my good days. I do always refer people to top players vids to really see what is done as a start point.

Loads of stuff in the forums generally that may help some hone more once they have got the main ropes under control. That's all for individuals to take their own view on. I can't really comment on all that stuff in any real intimate way, as I simply read breaks (topography generally) same as IRL.

Rambling a bit now, and that's because putting is so personal I guess:)

Cheers

spy88

205 Posts

Wed, Aug 13 2014 5:13 PM

Apologies accepted sir...and no harm done. The original theme of this thread was to help players with putting. My post was no different by making it quite clear several times, that what I gave was maybe a way to help a player or two and that it worked for me, else I would not be using it or suggesting it. To each their own.

And I admit I got maybe carried away with saying what I've done, aside from putting, to improve my game play. It all came out as an extension of the paper scale for power. There are people that won't or don't or can't go to the lengths I have for knowing distances...greens or otherwise, for almost every club I use. I was simply indicating its use beyond greens.

As you state, there is more then enough info in the forums to help those who want it. And I don't wish to ramble either, but I played irl for over 45 years (and a scratch at one point) until my back said no more. This is the only reason I play this sim...it inadequately but partly fulfills that need to be "out there".

I don't care the subject, I have never posted anything except suggestions to other players...WGT is the exception to this. ;)

Jimbog1964

8,378 Posts

Thu, Aug 14 2014 3:40 AM

spy88:
lengths I have for knowing distances...greens or otherwise, for almost every club I use

Agree entirely every single club should be mapped, and with one ball including various spins / power, and as you also said that each green speeds also needs understanding. Wind affect is also very important even when putting.

Personally I would veer away from not never moving the aim marker, and just doing everything with missing when putting. Never moving the aim should be thought of as the rarity IMO.

Some putters are more suited to off ding style (does not have to mean never moving the aim marker), with the L55 Rossa being a great example. Balance and precision also work very much hand in hand also IMO, unless you never set the meter deep. If there is a downside to your putter (L51) it's the balance with the meter set deep (can't weight putts particularly well which is an issue when any distance and break involved obviously). Remedy can be be not to set the meter deep, but clearly it all shows how important it is to stick to one putter (general point for others as sure you agree anyway). Good thread on all that stuff here if any one not see it.

Never played RL golf to your high standard. Took it up late, after team sports, then kids came along but now sometimes more time I enjoy it again. No great shakes at it, but with half an eye for a ball type stuff most games you can get to a reasonable standard easy enough.....

spy88

205 Posts

Fri, Aug 15 2014 9:41 AM

Jimbog1964:
Personally I would veer away from not never moving the aim marker, and just doing everything with missing when putting. Never moving the aim should be thought of as the rarity IMO.

I'm glad you stated this as a personal opinion. My PO is that (as previously stated) I rarely move mine "unless extremely curly". I agree...never moving the aim line most certainly is the rarity. Some putts simply cannot be made (or have no chance of being made) unless one does.

Jimbog1964

8,378 Posts

Sat, Aug 16 2014 1:50 AM

spy88:
I rarely move mine "unless extremely curly". I agree...never moving the aim line most certainly is the rarity.

I think you should watch some videos of very good players. The aim marker gets moved much in any I have seen. I don't know what your definition of extremely curly is, but aim movement is the default first by v good putters, and personally a method I go with. Now dead straight or near to straight I may miss to hold a line, and real niagara breaks I may mix n match.....

If your formula works for you now fine, but with respect even your 3 putt stats are not too flash. I would consider your stance hard IF (only you know) your stats are reflective of usual outcome. Distance is half the battle but mostly putting by not moving the aim will putt you up against it.

spy88

205 Posts

Sun, Aug 17 2014 10:20 AM

Jimbog1964:
I don't know what your definition of extremely curly is...

"Extremely curly". A putt that cannot be made within the confines of the release meter without moving the aim line to offset some/most/all of the break. When I first started playing WGT, I always tried to move my line to adjust for break. But as I got further into play with others, I noticed that the time they took to putt negated (in my mind) the belief they did the same. I even asked others as we played, if they moved the line or just offset it and the majority of responses were "leave it as-is". Which is what I did and learned to do. And I'm still of that opinion.

As for my stats, you're absolutely correct...not up to standard for a TM by any means. I do, however, have a recent legit reason for them deteriorating.

I bought a new monitor 2 weeks ago. Went from a 17" to a 24". This widened the ding area by almost 2". I had to make a new paper scale for the power meter but I'm still fighting to find the applicable release point. You'd think it wouldn't take that much learning but until you've gone through the same, it may be hard to understand. It totally messed up my putting/scoring and is still a guessing game, even after hours of practice. But my distance control still works.

I'll eventually get the "feel" of it but poor putting stats don't negate my distance "formula" as viable for trying. There is no direct correlation from ones stats to a suggested method of figuring putting distances. A distance formula is never going to directly translate to making more putts or lowering ones putting stats. It may help negate 3 putts but one still must get it close enough with the first putt and distance control is primary. The release point is also primary...and where I'm having problems.

Jimbog1964

8,378 Posts

Sun, Aug 17 2014 11:40 AM

spy88:
A distance formula is never going to directly translate to making more putts or lowering ones putting stats.

It directly contributes to exactly half of the stats where any break is involved. If you can't weight a putt to take a break then close is as good as it will get.

spy88:
It may help negate 3 putts but one still must get it close enough with the first putt and distance control is primary.

Putt weight and distance together and 3 putts easily become a thing of the past in this game...99.99999% of the time.

spy88:
The release point is also primary...and where I'm having problems.

Well any one with very good stats that I have come across will say to move the aim marker, save very short slight breaks, and I emphasise slight and on champ that's even slighter. Why I think your problems will continue with that not moving the marker mostly method.

Dubfore

4,350 Posts

Mon, Aug 18 2014 4:14 AM

Hello golfers,

There are too many pages here to check if what I'm looking for is already posted.

I was sent the greens speeds calculations below, but I'm having trouble getting my head around them.

A quick ready reckoner in fractions would be better and easy to calculate. This is clear > a 30 foot putt on championship greens becomes a 20-22 footer, roughly less 1/3 of power = Hit 66%.

These calculations are for my club members, I'd like them as simple as possible.

Fractions are easier for mental maths. Anyone else got fractions? A simplified method for all green speeds would be more than welcome.

Thanks, Dubfore.

"easy to change green speed - just change the value under Stimpmeter (in my example it was 13 for Champ Speeds) - just change that to whatever the stimpmeter reading is shown on the 1st green.

The 17.2098 in the example is the equivalent distance (calculated at 24 foot in the example) that you must putt on Champ Greens (stimpmeter 13), as another example if you were on Fast greens (Stimpmeter 9) - then the equivalent distance (for 24 foot putt) would be 23.17 foot, and for Standard Greens (Stimpmeter 7.9) the equivalent distance (for a 24 foot putt) would be 25.296 foot.

The equivalent distance just calculates the amount of power to hitt your putt - relative to your putter's distance scale (most putter's distance scales are set up to reflect ~ Standard Greens - ie if you hit 100% of 15 foot scale on Standard Greens -the ball should travel approx 15 foot)."