**UPDATE** 6/4/2014
As of a few days ago, some significant changes have been made to the putting aspect of WGT. I thought a few observations might be handy.
Q: Are the green speeds different?
A: No. But there are apparently two factors on the greens which have been given increased importance. First, the wind has far more effect on the putt than previously. For example, putting into a 20 mph wind used to cause me to add a couple of feet if it was a middle range putt, and that was sufficient. Also I used to be able to basically ignore tailwind and crosswind on the green -- not any more. Now, the wind has significant effects (as far as I can determine) in all directions. Don't be afraid to add distance to a putt if you're putting into the wind. Likewise, take it into account when it's a tailwind or crosswind. It matters now.
The second changed effect seems to be ball momentum near the hole. It was always true that distance needed to be tacked on to a putt when there was a steep incline just BEFORE the hole. Now the effect is much more widespread and subtle -- it's important to look for little dimples around the cup before putting. I'm sure some of you have noticed radical changes in direction near the hole. This is due to these dimples having an increased effect on the putt. Shooting 'through' this topology is also now riskier, as the accuracy demand on all putts seems to have increased. This means that if your line is not dead-on with that extra speed, your putt will likely rim out.
Now to the original lesson:
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This formula for putting distance transformed my game on the greens when I was a new Tour Pro struggling to find a way to manage putting distances. It was taught to me by oneputtparker, an excellent and generous WGT golfer. She explained it to me during a round one day in the chat box, and I have in turn done the same with other golfers.
Explaining the formula in the chat box during game play, however, could be distracting to players not interested in the knowledge. It seemed to me that more advantage would be gained by referring players to here for proper perusal - good digestion is key to every diet, and that includes golfing tips.
This formula is a three step process. I recommend that players shoot a round or two solo when first learning to apply it. The shot clock has an unnerving affect on my arithmetic, and I hope I correctly assume that I'm not the only person who can't add under pressure.
Note: You'll know what type of green you'll be shooting by looking at the highest-tier member of your group. If that is a master, greens will be Very Fast. If there is a Tour Master, that will be Tournament. If there is a Legend, the greens will say "TOURNAMENT" BUT IN FACT THEY ARE LEGEND TOURNAMENT GREENS, SO BE AWARE.
First, let's lay down some constants:
Legend Tournament Speed = -40% (yes, that's a minus sign)
Tournament Speed = -30%
Very Fast = -20%
Fast =-10%
Standard =+0%
Slow =-10%
Got that? It's a predictable trend, and since most of us end up shooting on Very Fast or Tournament greens only the top three are really important to remember. Now, for the formula:
Distance = ((feet to cup +2ft) - percentage) + (elevation x 1ft)
Confusing, right? It isn't once you apply it. Here's an example:
Imagine that you're 18ft from the cup on a Very Fast green, and the blue panel has a down arrow with 3in. That means that the cup is 3 inches below the ball, right? Let's apply the formula:
18ft + 2ft = 20ft. 20(.8) = 16ft. Now, subtract 3 feet (3in drop, remember?) and you get 13 feet. As always, add a little bit more to your putt so it doesn't stop right on the rim. You'd shoot this for about 13.5 - 14ft.
But what if the panel indicates a rise of, say, 4 inches? Let's see:
18ft + 2ft = 20ft. 20(.8) = 16ft. . So far the same. But this time, we ADD 4 feet because the cup is 4 inches HIGHER than the ball. So in this case, we have a total distance of 20 feet. Again, remember to add a little to that to make sure the ball doesn't stop an inch short. I would shoot this one about 20.5 - 21 feet.
Now let's work these two examples for a Tournament green:
3 inch drop - 18ft + 2ft = 20ft. 20(.7) = 14ft. Now subtract the 3 feet for the 3 in. drop, you get 11 feet. Again, add just a tiny bit. I'd shoot this 18 foot putt about 11.5 - 12ft worth.
4 inch rise - 18ft + 2ft = 20ft. 20(.7) = 14ft. Now ADD 4 feet for the 4in. rise, for a total of 18ft. Remember to add a little to that - I would shoot this putt for about 18.5 - 19 feet.
Hopefully you can see the trend. Just add two feet, then think percentage (Tournament = -30%, VF = -20%, etc), then then account for drop or rise by adding or subtracting a foot for every inch or rise or drop, as necessary. Then add a bit to make sure. Once you get into the rhythm it becomes second nature.
Additional Considerations:
For very long putts, (call it 30 feet and over) there is a friction price to be paid over that distance. As the ball travels, friction between the ball and the green tends to slow the ball down a bit more. So add a touch for these longer putts. I typically tack on a foot for a putt 30-45 feet, and two or more for putts longer than that.
Also, for putts with a lot of break in them, don't forget to consider that this represents extra distance traveled. Estimate it and add it into your calculation.
SHORT PUTTS: Anything 5 ft and under should just be shot for advertised value, provided it is not radically sloped. But don't bother with the percentage part of the formula, it just makes these putts overly complicated. Smack it in and move on.
Break: Reading the break in a green is an art form, not a science. I personally know of no empirical or logical approach to it. But a few guidelines may help. Remember that downhill putts take break to a greater degree than uphill putts. In other words, take the break in downhill putts much more seriously, and allow for it more. Also, the faster the green, the more the break comes into play.
This takes PRACTICE! But mastering this formula will guarantee that you'll almost never three-putt a green again.