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A little help, please, on shots around the green..

Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:46 AM (17 replies)
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  • sardono
    114 Posts
    Sun, Apr 22 2012 8:37 AM

    linksdude:

    Okay guys, thanx for the tip. I happened to reach level 39 today, so I just bought the Z Satin 64* wedge that is available at that level. I took the hybrid out of my bag; there's only 5 yards difference between it and the 3-iron.

    I immediately went out and played 9 holes, and man, what a difference. I've been trying those delicate shots with my Cleveland 56 and 60, and it just doesn't work. But this Satin 64 makes it a lot easier to get up and down from anywhere around the green. Thank you, guys, for the suggestion. You done good!  :-)

     

    I think there should be a big flashing box that pops up when you get to level 39.

    It should say something to the effect of ....

    HEY, HEY, you got to level 39 go buy the Level 39 64 deg. Z-Satin wedge, shave 2-5 strokes off your game now. It will be the best 250 credits you will spend here, get it before we raise the price.

    :)

     

  • linksdude
    1,585 Posts
    Sun, Apr 22 2012 3:46 PM

    Yeah, I am really enjoying that Satin 64, for sure. Sarge Bilko pointed out that there is a big difference between the Clevelands and the Satins, but so far my mix of two Clevelands (56, 60) and one Satin (64) is working fine. I especially like the Clevelands for full shots - they stop on a dime. How would you guys compare the 64* Cleveland and the 64* Z-Satin? The Cleveland costs about 245 more than the Z-Satin - is it worth the extra credits?

  • gr8flbob
    592 Posts
    Sun, Apr 22 2012 6:26 PM

    linksdude:
    How would you guys compare the 64* Cleveland and the 64* Z-Satin? The Cleveland costs about 245 more than the Z-Satin - is it worth the extra credits?

    I'd say the CG-15 64 and the Z 64 are comparable - once you get the hang of the Cleveland's behavior. The advantage of the Cleveland wedges is that from 70 - 75% up to 100% full power, the distance you get is quite linear. Hit the 80 yd CG-15 with 90% power and you'll get 72 yds; hit it 80% and you'll get 64 yds. this applies to punch shots also.

    Where people get in trouble with Clevelands is applying backspin. For full and punch shots you simply don't need backspin in most situations - an exception might be in approaches to downhill slopes and/or strong tailwind. I use backspin to varying degrees to control roll-out on pitches, chips and flops.

    The Sarge and I will have to agree to disagree on flop methodology ... using the 'hit the early line' method means you're not making a true flop anymore; the trajectory and overall distance are dramatically impacted. I aim left of target and try to 'ding' it - this will produce the high trajectory of a classic flop and lack of roll-out. I've never had an issue even with full backspin applied - it just stops and there is little to no 'roll-back'.

    How far left do you aim? I move the aim point 3 grid squares left of desired landing spot for a 20 yd flop, 4 sq for 30 yd, and 5 sq for 40 yd. Those guidelines apply for low wind and flat landing area - you'll need to tweak it some for strong side-winds or sloped landing area.

  • alosso
    21,065 Posts
    Sun, Apr 22 2012 10:00 PM

    ty SGT!

  • alosso
    21,065 Posts
    Mon, Apr 23 2012 4:40 AM

    gr8flbob:
    The Sarge and I will have to agree to disagree on flop methodology ... using the 'hit the early line' method means you're not making a true flop anymore; the trajectory and overall distance are dramatically impacted. I aim left of target and try to 'ding' it - this will produce the high trajectory of a classic flop and lack of roll-out. I've never had an issue even with full backspin applied - it just stops and there is little to no 'roll-back'.
    This answers my next question - why does the early-line flop roll (e.g. 5 of 26 yds)? Reasonable, because any shot will misbehave when hit far from the ding.

  • YankeeJim
    25,827 Posts
    Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:09 AM

    alosso:
    This answers my next question - why does the early-line flop roll (e.g. 5 of 26 yds)? Reasonable, because any shot will misbehave when hit far from the ding.

    Yes, they do misbehave BUT if you know your clubs and have practiced this way you KNOW what the shot will do. I discovered missing to that line with this shot when the Satin first came out a few years ago and it has always been consistent.

    However, with the introduction of the CGs, this shot has been relegated to those situations where you have to stop the ball close and avoid a bad roll. The CG64W pitch has replaced this as a go to shot because the CGs are so controllable with pitches and a pitch has a better chance of going in than a flop.

    As for comparing the Satin and CG 64Ws, I see a lot of players with 2 CGs and the Satin64. It is just so reliable it's hard to part with. The CG is 10 yards longer so it comes down to what you're more comfortable with. IMO, when you learn the CG64W you forget about the Satin.

  • rushdog
    16 Posts
    Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:27 AM

    i have starter clubs ,3ft into rough 11yds to hole why not try a 11yd chip shot has to be more or less a full swing while doing it ,going up hill same distance try a 11yd pitch

  • mantis0014
    8,946 Posts
    Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:46 AM

    I have 3 Cleveland Wedges now. C56, C60 and C64. These have flop ranges of 38yrd, 29 and 20. 

    The C64 is very good at flopping from 40/50 Rough 10yrds from pin.

    As Previously said, when you use the flop... You click the Line just before the Ding. Using Full B/Spin. Only move the Aimer slightly according to wind direction and Roll on Green.

    I should say too I'm using the Nike Ball... Other golf balls might have a different affect (not sure)

    -Roger

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