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Not just another topic on what clubs to choose

• lluciano 536 Posts

  Sun, Dec 30 2012 2:03 AM

  U can stop a free ball dead with good clubs , the CG wedges will most certainly spin it back on a receptive green like Congo or Oakie.

• lluciano 536 Posts

  Sun, Dec 30 2012 2:11 AM

  These are the low level CG wedges, I imagine the higher level are even better.

• alosso 21,074 Posts

  Sun, Dec 30 2012 2:53 AM

  The Starter ball provides a wee bit of spin reaction, too, even with the Starter clubs. The balls will run long, not very long ;)

• Rockitch 1,022 Posts

  Sat, Jan 5 2013 2:29 AM

  After 90 consecutive days playing I just reached level 79.... rushed to the pro shop and got me the RocketBladez Iron Set (Steel) (L79+) and the 100yrd cleveland wedge.

  2 days ago I reached level 78 and got me the 80yrd cleveland wedge to see how it played with the free ball. I was satisfied with the delivered stopping power, so decided for the rocketbladez irons + cleveland wedges setup. I was just too afraid the PING G20 + TM atv wedges setup was not going to give me enough stopping power, playing the free ball. Added to that, the best drivers and 3wd's (the R11 and R11s) have the same meter speed as the rocketbladez/clevelands. Weak point in this setup is the gap between my 125 yard PW and the 100 yard cleveland wedge, but hey, you can't have everything, right ?

  1 level (a bit over 10.000 xp points) to go to level 80 and with that the 60 yard cleveland wedge..... and then it will be a bit of a longer run for the right driver and 3 wd.

  Why did I in the end decide on this setup instead of the originally favorite PING G20 - TM atv wedge -setup? The higher meter speed will keep the game challenging (but not impossible, like with the R11 irons+ free ball) for me, while the extra spin will in the future open up possibilities I wouldn't have with the G20's/ATV's when having to approach the faster legend greens, someday.

  Going for another round... or two :)

   

  R.

• Chinajohn 1,190 Posts

  Sat, Jan 5 2013 8:42 PM

  Thanks for posting this I've been doing some very similar work myself, I was looking at the exact same set up as you originally posted, i.e. G20s and ATVs my only difference is I intend to use better balls, I currently use the Callaway i(s) (but may upgrade to the Nike 2010s).

  My only problem with your updated speed 2.5 set up is the wait for level 94 / 95 for the 3W and Driver. I only have time for 18 holes a day and sometimes just a quick CTTH (for the experience points), and I'm not sure I have the patience to wait THAT long for a longer driver.

• Rockitch 1,022 Posts

  Sun, Jan 6 2013 1:36 AM

  I'm not yet sure myself if I can wait that long for the very best (R11s) driver and 3wd. If not, then best alternative would be the slightly worse version, the R11.

  TaylorMade R11 3 Wood (L85+)

  TaylorMade R11 9.0 Driver (L88+)

  Having made the last purchase (prior to the driver and 3wd) on level 80 (the 60 yard cleveland wedge), it will be a bit of a wait until level 85 and then 88, but I think I can manage. If even that takes too long, you can get the PING G20 driver and 3wd, but that would break the "same meter speed for all"- setup.

  By the way.... going for the PING G20 set + ATV wedges leaves you waiting for the 50 yard wedge until level 89 !

  Another thing: At this moment I am a level 79 master. The driver I use is only 257 yard, which is way shorter then the longest (NOT high trajectory) driver I can get now. I think that is only a disadvantage to my current scores. For the future it will be more of an advantage. I guess teeing off from the master tees with my low level R11s driver lands on the fairway somewhere in the neighborhood of where I will land in the future, teeing off from legend tees, with a longer driver. With that, all the iron and wedge approaches  I'm playing in the meantime (being master/tourmaster) will be somewhat similar to the ones I will have to play when I have my final driver and 3 wd, and play from the legend tees. I think this is a better preparation for the future than first getting the PING G20 set on level 83 and then having to wait for the wedges.

  R.

   

   

• pastlife63 55 Posts

  Sun, Jan 6 2013 10:23 AM

  I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to write your post. I am  just an average player, always been  a bit hit and miss but recently started getting 3~5 under par on 9 holes from being 3 over. I just play for relaxation and as a bit of a hobby. I had never even  thought about  what speeds my various clubs run at... There is one I use, don't know until I go and investigate, that  def runs much faster than everything else, I am like you, looking to upgrade everything, I'm  at  level 76 and by some miracle reached the Master tier this morning. I was looking at  the level 81 G20 from my  R11 level 29, and I was going with the rocket BLZ irons but someone else said  may as well wait for the G20's at L83  which now reading your post makes a lot more sense,  i use a level 66 ghost putter and my putting  i have to say  is really accurate but, many times  i miss by  fractions of an inch  for a birdie and a lot of it is because of the increments  starting at 15 then 25 etc, quite a gap so i am going to get the new max putter, i did think about the level 80   5,10, 25 40  but  i think the master level   going 5 10 20 30  will be an easier transition  from the meter readings  i was used to, they only go up by ten instead of 15. 

  Anyway, so in the end I just wanted to say thanks for the post, can't believe i never ever thought about matching the meter speeds!!!

• Rockitch 1,022 Posts

  Sun, Jan 6 2013 11:22 AM

  You're welcome (chinajohn as well by the way). Since it is a game of reflexes and eye-hand coordination, matching meter speeds are a big advantage if you ask me. Other people simply buy max slow meter balls (or any other meter slowing ball), so different speeds are less of a problem. Playing the free ball however, with the higher level clubs, I think matching meter speeds is the only right way to go. Once you've got the flow you can shoot some good rounds. When every single shot you make is with a different meter speed club, you kill the chance of getting in that flow.

  R.

• Rockitch 1,022 Posts

  Sun, Jan 13 2013 7:47 AM

  Playing my new irons and wedges for a week now. Still having a hard time getting used to 'm.  VEM (or whatever) making a 4iron (205yrd) full shot with a 12 o'clock headwind of 13 mph and neutral spin, perfectly dinged, end up at 170 yard. How am I supposed to learn my new clubs with this kind of ridiculousness ?

  Really considering giving up on this game. For now I'll stick around some longer to see if anything good comes out of this mess.

  R.

• Chinajohn 1,190 Posts

  Sun, Jan 13 2013 10:55 PM

  Rock, I'm a few levels below you but I'll tell you what I do and it may help, if not it may help someone else.

  When I get a new club (or set, my last set was the Ping Rapture V2) I head off to practice rounds on BP back 9, esp 9, 10 and 11, set up for low wind and easy holes and easy tees, (we aren;t trying to practice but rate our clubs). Then for every club hit it centre ball, Full Backspin and Full TopSpin both up AND down the fairway, up and down is important as you will have it both with and against the wind and with and against any elevation, you then average the two distances, this will then give you the real 'rated' distance for your clubs. Note with the 10 shot rule this can take a few rounds, you can either quit once you get to the par 3 and restart or finish the round for fun.

  Once you have the real rated distance for your club and ball when you get to a 'real' shot, you just add or subtract one yard for each 1mph wind, remembering a 90degree wind is 0% behind / infront and 100% across, a 45 degree wind is 50% behind / infront and 50% across you have to gauge any inbetween winds.

  It works pretty well, although it's not perfect I'm usually within 20ft and I'm getting that down as I learn the greens.