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Discount Packages Purchase Question/s

• dblmikeusa1 77 Posts

  Fri, Dec 22 2017 11:21 AM

  It seems to be quite common that I have some sort of daily deal if you will to where I get something at a discount. So I would like to know if there are some that should be avoided because they are just not worth it or should I be taking advantage of the opportunity to buy them each time they come up?

  The main one in question is actually running right now where if I spend 25 US dollars I get 2000 credits, 320000 coins, 15 scratchers, and 15 spins. 

  In reading through multiple posts it appears that coins are essentially worthless, thus making spins and scratchers worthless because they give coins. Am I correct in that statement?

  I purchased a package recently where I thought 999 was a decent deal on some equipment and 300 credits and I would be able to sell it back and actually make more money but in the end if I would have spent that 999 I would have gotten a thousand credits versus the roughly 650 I got after selling everything back.

  So ultimately are there any of these that I should get the moment I see them and are there any of these that I should avoid?

  The only thing I'm looking to do at this point is upgrade my putter, upgrade my driver and 3-wood, then when the time comes I'll be upgrading my irons, and possibly my wedges but that made be a while.

  Your feedback is much appreciated.

• alosso 21,087 Posts

  Fri, Dec 22 2017 1:07 PM

  dblmikeusa1:

  The main one in question is actually running right now where if I spend 25 US dollars I get 2000 credits, 320000 coins, 15 scratchers, and 15 spins. 

  In reading through multiple posts it appears that coins are essentially worthless, thus making spins and scratchers worthless because they give coins. Am I correct in that statement?

  Coins may be useful for games on mobiles.

  If you think that coins are worthless, then it will be pointless to spend 5 $ for any of these. I buy only credits, via my phone bill (Zong) - a good deal here!

  When you return your equipment license to WGT (AKA sell them back) , you get 25 % of the original price - usually not a good bargain.

  As for updates, methinks that you don't need any. The R11 clubs and ATV wedges are just fine, as well as your putter which is good until L70 at least!

  There's a recommended driver coming at L46(?), but the next logical step would be to play on until L59 (>80,000 XPs), when the G25 clubs with high(!) trajectory arrive. Other good clubs come later, but only consider high trajectory!

  You might want to get better wedges eventually, from L76 up ;)

  Until then: Have fun!

• dblmikeusa1 77 Posts

  Fri, Dec 22 2017 2:48 PM

  alosso:

  As for updates, methinks that you don't need any. The R11 clubs and ATV wedges are just fine, as well as your putter which is good until L70 at least!

  There's a recommended driver coming at L46(?), but the next logical step would be to play on until L59 (>80,000 XPs), when the G25 clubs with high(!) trajectory arrive. Other good clubs come later, but only consider high trajectory!

  You might want to get better wedges eventually, from L76 up ;)

  Until then: Have fun!

  Are referring to the level 48 R1? That's what I have my eyes set on currently.

  Putter, I was considering a change to the Sabertooth for the precision and forgiveness, which is a slight bit better than what I'm currently using... But these are probably separate threads.

• alosso 21,087 Posts

  Sat, Dec 23 2017 12:12 AM

  Yes, the R1.

  My two Pfennig: Make your decision when you rise to the Master tier, as the R11 should be plenty as a Pro and Tour Pro. Perhaps you're closer to L59 then to select your clubs.

  Another two Pfennig on putters:
  Yours is quite good, and that virtual putter will only be as good as the putter at the mouse. Only when the aiming and hitting skills are good enough will a player profit from precision equipment, and the really good ones are L66(?) up, and EXPENSIVE!
  The Sabertooths have only a little margin against your Ghost Spider.

  Regarding forgiveness, it will make a difference if you are a "ding" or "miss the ding" putting person. Some people (like me) influence the ball path by intentionally missing the ding, and too much forgiveness eliminates these efforts. (BTW, I now think that ding putting may be better).

  Next, there is "balance" as a putter characteristic. This will show how good the putts will hold their line over long distances. Good experience of "no balance" is available on long shots on STA's huge greens, using the Starter putter. Again, it becomes meaningful once a player can hit the putter as intended. BTW, the Sabertooths have less balance than your putter.

• dblmikeusa1 77 Posts

  Sat, Dec 23 2017 9:51 AM

  I appreciate the input. Yeah after looking last night I got to thinking that I finally started to adjust to this putter so if it isn't broke don't fix it. 

  As for the R1 I'm definitely going to pick that up but at this point I'm starting to realize the importance of a good ball as well so I need to start looking at affordable balls because some of these decent ones are quite expensive to have them be a "consumable" item. Some of these things cost as much if not more than a sleeve of real golf balls that one can play.

• alosso 21,087 Posts

  Sat, Dec 23 2017 10:39 PM

  Balls are the green fees of this game, the best part being that each player has the spendings at his hand - from Zero for Starters to the most expensive ones.

  Looking at budget balls, I have another two Pfennig:

  - Match the balls with your budget, take those which cause no worries when taken away by the game (they wear and get lost),

  - Starters are possible if your reactions are good and your budget is weak,

  - Tour-SD @65 cr, fast meter but a wee bit more distance than indicated, a good beginner-level choice,

  - L11 Srixon Z-Star @180 cr, a tad more of all characteristics,

  - L33 Callaways @250 cr, now "Hex Chrome Soft", general purpose balls for "the ambitious amateur" with quite good spin and distance.

  Higher ambitions need more expensive balls. Brands and types depend on the clubs that you have. For true "darting", look at L70+!

  Be careful to balance ball characteristics with club characteristics. A high profile Nike ball is wasted on feeble clubs. My rule of thumb: Ball level should not exceed the club level.