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higher putting scales

• BriRock 148 Posts

  Sat, Sep 11 2010 10:39 AM

  i've been reading a lot of posts about using the higher scales to put...but im not sure i understand...i get the concept of the meter being slower with a shorter backswing...but then i also hear about players just watching the avatar and not even looking at the meter for distance measuring...can someone please explain this to me?? i've heard there is a formula out there somewhere....thanks.

• borntobesting 9,709 Posts

  Sat, Sep 11 2010 11:35 AM

  Actually the avatar movement style of putting is augmented by watching the meter. To use the avatar movement style of putting you need to go to a practice round and for every meter scale make a full stroke counting the movements in the scale. For example the Taylor Made Daytona putter has 15 30 60 90 150 and 300 foot scales for the 30 foot scale there are 5 6 foot movements. the 60 is 5 12 foot movements so for a 24 foot putt you would use the second avatar movement. Or I should say for a putt the would go 24 feet. It takes some time to get used to this putting style but it really works pretty well when you become accustomed to using it.

• b0geybuster 2,574 Posts

  Sat, Sep 11 2010 12:31 PM

  There is some really helpful information in this thread.

  http://www.wgt.com/forums/t/559.aspx?PageIndex=1

  Cheers

• garyk49 2,331 Posts

  Sat, Sep 11 2010 2:10 PM

  Bri, as Bogey said, that contains very good information.  Born is correct to some extent.

  All putters and all scales will have x number of movements per scale.  But each movement per scale will be different based on green speed.

  Example, for my redwood, both 15 and 30 scales each movement on very fast greens is 7 feet.  On fast greens those same movements are 6 feet.  On the 45 each is 11 on vfast and 9 on fast.  Slow, tourney, and champ. have their own set of numbers.  Even those numbers aren't set in stone.  A lot of feel, done by a lot of practice, is used with the putting.  Uphill, downhill, break, all effect what might be right for the distance to hit the putt.

  Have seen very fast greens that seem to be a little faster then normal, and have seen them slower.

• piztaker 5,743 Posts

  Sat, Sep 11 2010 10:50 PM

  Just hit and hope. You're holding up the whole course.

• BriRock 148 Posts

  Mon, Sep 13 2010 4:41 AM

  Any ideas on the Spyder scales? Thats what im using now...i dont really have a problem with putting untill i get into the 100 foor scales...as i have a hard time judging how far to drag the meter back...but i think that is where this is is goig to help...thanks for all the info...  My bad Piz...as soon as your done taking one you can play through.

• Pangaea 242 Posts

  Mon, Sep 13 2010 10:11 AM

  Try to slowly drag back the club on the various scales and see how many avatar movements there are. You can generally divide the max distance with the amount of avatar movements. I see it has 25, 50, 100 etc. So I would assume it's 5 feet x 5 for the 25 footer, and then 10 movements for the others with 5 feet each, 10 feet each et cetera - but you need to check this yourself as I don't have that putter.

• YankeeJim 25,827 Posts

  Mon, Sep 13 2010 10:50 AM

  Pangaea:

  Try to slowly drag back the club on the various scales and see how many avatar movements there are

   

  A big, big caution on reading the moves--DO NOT TRUST THE FIRST MOVE YOU SEE. By this I mean you need to "waggle" the move just as you might IRL. In a like conversation a while ago a poster referred to "cancelling" the move as what you would call it if you made the club move and then backed up to just before it moves.

  By way of an example, with any putter, any scale, make the avatar's club move what you think is once. Hold it and watch the meter as you move towards cancelling it. The meter moves quite a bit before the club  actually does. This is a huge strength difference when you use this method. The waggle comes from moving, cancelling, moving again, cancelling again, etc., so that you're sure you get the move right. This is critically important when using the larger scales.This is how the avatar move method works best because you will be consistent and be able to learn what your putter's moves get you. (I'm one of those that never looks at the meter when I putt unless it's under  6 feet.)

  Adjusting for green speeds gets much easier because no matter what values you use each move is going to be something. Cancelling a move will be something less on that same scale. The difference for me between Very Fast and Tournament speeds is very simple. VF= a full move; T= cancel the move.

  I swear by the method. I use a Redwood Master putter and have been putting this way since the beginning. It doesn't take long to learn what your putter values are, either by trial and error or searching for forum posts on the subject-there are some excellent ones. 

  The best part of putting this way, for me, is when you get used to using the larger scales the back swing is really short and the ding is easier to get. GL

• BriRock 148 Posts

  Mon, Sep 13 2010 12:57 PM

  Thanks to all who responded...the using of the higher scales....meaning the 45 60 90... or whatever they are...to make much shorter putts is starting to pay off... at first i was jamming everything way passed the whole...much further than the 1' - 2' that i was hoping for...but i've started to figure them out...as i now have upgraded to the redwood...not the master as i didn't have the credits...i'm starting to see what everyone else was talking about....that putter does make a difference...and combined with the new putting style...i've begun to make much longer putts...and my misses are much closer...i think its only a matter of time...still having a hard time with the avatar movement part...as im still gestimating the meter for distance...but im going to try that out now that i have a bit of confidence with the new putter...thanks again!!

   

• nyctc7 160 Posts

  Sun, May 13 2012 3:28 PM

  YankeeJim:

  A big, big caution on reading the moves--DO NOT TRUST THE FIRST MOVE YOU SEE. By this I mean you need to "waggle" the move just as you might IRL. In a like conversation a while ago a poster referred to "cancelling" the move as what you would call it if you made the club move and then backed up to just before it moves.

  By way of an example, with any putter, any scale, make the avatar's club move what you think is once. Hold it and watch the meter as you move towards cancelling it. The meter moves quite a bit before the club  actually does. This is a huge strength difference when you use this method. The waggle comes from moving, cancelling, moving again, cancelling again, etc., so that you're sure you get the move right. This is critically important when using the larger scales.This is how the avatar move method works best because you will be consistent and be able to learn what your putter's moves get you. (I'm one of those that never looks at the meter when I putt unless it's under  6 feet.)

  Adjusting for green speeds gets much easier because no matter what values you use each move is going to be something. Cancelling a move will be something less on that same scale. The difference for me between Very Fast and Tournament speeds is very simple. VF= a full move; T= cancel the move.

  I just starting using the avatar method and like it. I really appreciate this tip about "dialing in" that first increment (movement).  I have a couple of questions!

  1. Do you dial in all the successive movements in this manner or just the first one?

  2. I don't quite understand what I have bolded above. Lets say I have a 20' flat putt, so I multiply by .2 to compensate for a Very Fast green, i.e. treat it as a 16' putt. Sometimes this works but sometimes it doesn't so I am most interested in a better way to adjust for green speed, so could you better explain to this noob what you mean?

  I am currently trying out both the Rossa and the Redwood. I like both, maybe the Redwood by a notch, but think because of the slower meter speed of the Rossa I'd be happier with it in the long run.

  Thanks....!