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Spider Putter Question

• misstery 705 Posts

  Thu, May 5 2011 4:43 PM

  set up a practice round at kiawah for fast greens, the green on the 1st hole is pretty level, make a few putts pulling the putter back one movement, and then use that as ur base figure,

  i would guess it's about 8ft!! Not sure what ur meter speed is like on that one, but the begiiner putter is prob a lot easier to control, and the meter is really slow and easy on it.

  I've had every putter going and found the rossa and the beginner one to be the best.

  Good luck

   

• YankeeJim 25,827 Posts

  Thu, May 5 2011 5:16 PM

  sdorr:

  it is stupid to rely on increments based on an avatar's move.

  I wholeheartedly disagree, Sir. I've been using that method since Day 1, right after I read the Putting Tips. That was almost 2 years ago and I can say it is definitely an extremely accurate way to gauge putting strength. I highly recommend it.  :-)

• JaLaBar 1,254 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 1:36 AM

  That's what I did... well, I made a scale to fit the meter, then found the putting meter to be a slightly different, smaller size.  So I made a new one with the putting scale in red and the other meter in black.  My distances have been pretty spot on since, both putting and striking.

  Though occasionally a club will fool you.  The Satin 58 is supposed to go 86, and will if you top it out, but I have hit it 80% with tailwind and full backspin and it landed at 50, which should have been a good 20 yards longer using math.  The next time I got a similar shot, I hit it 90% and flew the pin by 7 yards.  So with some clubs you just have to get used to each clubs characteristics.  The Satin 64... If I am sitting on the fairway, looking at a cup 40 yards away, and I pull out the Satin and knock it 80%, I will be lucky to make the green.  But if I knock it 100%, I'll fly past the cup.  If I'm on the fairway just off the green, looking at a pin 15 feet away, and I hit the 64 30%, I'll only get halfway to the cup unless it's downhill.  But they are consistent.  That 58 degree will land at 50 yards hit that way every time.  They just seem to react differently as you take something off, the key is playing them so you know how they react.

• JaLaBar 1,254 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 1:50 AM

  I mean, whatever works for you.   I tried using the motions, and the two problems I had were the increments between movements, and occasionally miscounting, either of which can result in a two putt or in my ball falling into a black hole on an Oakmont green.  The meter seems more precise.  I know exactly what % I am hitting.  As long as I read the elevations and breaks right, I am usually 1-2.5' past the hole if I miss.

  But as with anything, if you find a method that works for you and you are comfortable with, and you practice it enough to get good at it, it doesn't matter the means, only the destination.  Look at Rick Barry (hope that doesn't date me too much).

  As far as putters go, I preferred the Spider to the Anser.  Then I was going to use the Spider until I could get the Rossa (still need 4 levels).  But I decided to rent the Redwood at 47ish, and liked it enough to buy as a bridge to the Rossa.  I prefer the slower metered clubs.  I plan to play a 50% meter driver and wood, but you can miss by a little witha driver or wood and usually be alright.  With a putter, you miss.  The Rossa has the same meter as the Raptures, and I'll probably always use those irons and the Rossa, even as I upgrade my Driver and Woods for more length.

• YankeeJim 25,827 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 4:39 AM

  JaLaBar:

  If I am sitting on the fairway, looking at a cup 40 yards away, and I pull out the Satin and knock it 80%, I will be lucky to make the green.

  But if you punch it with a full swing and bs it goes 40! Sounds like you need to quit hitting those partial shots and start using the other ones like punch, pitch, chip and flop.

  The clubs are not linear. Just because you hit 80% doesn't mean you get 80% of the rated yardage. Spin, partial swings and missing the ding all play a part.

• buttweed 64 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 5:37 AM

  Hi Rich I had over 1000 rounds with the spider putter.Roughly 100 rounds ago I switched to the daytona . Stats are rising for the better. You might try what I have done Rich. I have made a paper ruler ( On the spider putter in 25 equal increments on the Daytona 15 equal increments.) Simple just take the length of your meter from where it starts counting to the end of your meter. Mine roughly 4 and one half inches and devide either 25 or 15 increments into . And you have the exact distance ......No more guessing. Good luck bud hope this helps. Also don't forget to subtract 20 pct. on tourney greens . 15 pct on very fast greens and 10 percent on fast greens . 

                                                                                                               Take care 

                                                                                                                       Buttweed

• sdorr 650 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 9:52 AM

  YankeeJim:

  I wholeheartedly disagree, Sir. I've been using that method since Day 1

  YJ, please accept my apology. Stupid was the wrong word to use. If counting increments works for you, then it does. It just seems like you have to somewhat guess at your distance between them whereas using a graphic scale takes all of the guess work out of the equation. That's all I am saying and thank you for being polite in your response.

• YankeeJim 25,827 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 10:11 AM

  sdorr:

  It just seems like you have to somewhat guess at your distance between them

  This is what actually makes it work. When you get the system down you find that strength adjustments come from the before and after of the move. Using all of the scales becomes effective and the moves become smaller on the larger ones. 

  The biggest reason I use it is because I like to use scales larger than normal to keep the backswing short. This helps tremendously in dinging. Your way does the same thing for you so whatever works is always a good thing.  :-)

• Steelers75 239 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 10:30 AM

  Either way you choose to do it the incremented scale is by far the best way to go regardless of which putter your using.  Remember when creating your scale, whether actual or mental (my choice), to be cognizant of green speed, elavation deviations, and break severity.  These all impact the speed at which the ball rolls i.e. eccelerates/decelerates given the declination/inclination of the green.  Ball type has an impact as well although minimal as does the weight of the putter.  Keep in mind that the last partial increment on your meter generally is the 95-100% power increment.  Through trial and error you may find that it's better to back off 2 increments rather than 1 for some putts given the distance to the hole. 

  Other than than Hack - Tour Pro a distance formula is required to compensate for green speed:

  TM: (distance to pin) +/- (elevation change) x .80 = putting distance.  For downhill putts use .75; severe downhill .65 or less.

  Legend: (distance to pin) +/- (elevation change) x .72 = putting distance.  For downhill putts use .65; severe downhill .60 or less.

  Granted, this is what has worked for me.  All in all, regardless of who gives what advice it's what works best for you.  Just remember that there is no formula that works every time on every putt, especially severe downhill breaking putts.  For what can be called normal putts the above formulas have done me well.

• MBaggese 15,375 Posts

  Fri, May 6 2011 11:35 AM

  Steelers75:

  TM: (distance to pin) +/- (elevation change) x .80 = putting distance.  For downhill putts use .75; severe downhill .65 or less.

  Legend: (distance to pin) +/- (elevation change) x .72 = putting distance.  For downhill putts use .65; severe downhill .60 or less.

   

  Thats some good info right there.